Club 80-90 Forums

Two things...Drove my van yesterday and now I can't get my key in the ignition...any ideas? I have wiggled the steering wheel and tried again but no joy.
AND also,
has anyone else had a problem with the break and indicator lights being dim? I have checked all the bulbs and used contact spray on them but no difference.
Any advice gratefully received as I'm off to Switzerland in my T25 in a couple of weeks and need to sort out the problems...
Thanks

Bowman1 wrote:Two things...Drove my van yesterday and now I can't get my key in the ignition...any ideas? I have wiggled the steering wheel and tried again but no joy.
AND also,
has anyone else had a problem with the break and indicator lights being dim? I have checked all the bulbs and used contact spray on them but no difference.
Any advice gratefully received as I'm off to Switzerland in my T25 in a couple of weeks and need to sort out the problems...
Thanks

Have you tried a few drops of thin oil (3in1 or similar) down the ignition barrel.
The dim lights are likely caused by a poor earth connection....follow the wiring to a comunal earthing point, remove/clean/re-install.
Martin

Thanks for the tips, I have tried some WD40 and no change. I think I may have to change the barrel. Do you know if this is a difficult job? It doesn't look it.
Re:lights: sorry if i'm being stupid but which earth do you mean? You don't mean the battery earth do you?
Thanks again

Behind the fusebox dood, which is behind the glove compartment, youi'll find all the earthing wires for the lights etc., terminating on a couple of circular earthing points with spade connectors. These are quite renowned apparently for corroding and causing poor earth faults.Take them off, and clean all the spades and the connectors on the circular thingies - you''ll be surprised at how much crud comes off them. A friend of mine had problems with the lights on his van a couple of weeks ago, and that was the root cause of the problem.

Can't help with the ignition problem though i'm afraid

OK well something may have collapsed in the ignition lock I guess, although this would be quite unusual but not unheard of.
As for earthing points.
Practically all motor vehicles use something called a negative earth system (the car/van chassis/body acting as the return line in the electrical circuits. This basically cuts down on manufacturing costs (wire) and weight.
Therefore, It would be rather pointless having the earth wire going all the way back to the fuse box, that would be defeating the object.
The reason why earths are so critical is they are nearly always shared: a seperate positive feed going to each individual light but ONE collective earth lead attaching directly to the body somewhere fairly close to the consumer (in this case the rear lights)
I seem to recall several earth leads attached around the coil mounting, N/S/R of engine bay, I'm guessing one of these is for the rear lights.
Bad earths were common to VW/Audi range up until the early 90's, a quick work around was to make up and fit a seperate earth lead (a short piece of 2mm wire with eyelets either end) one side screwed directly into the back of the lamp holder with a self tapping screw going through the shared negative plate and the other attached to a suitable cleaned (bare) part of the chassis with screw or existing nut/bolt.
Martin

i have an igniton barrel and steering lock with key if you find that yours in duff

To remove the ignition lock:
Remove horn pad
Remove steerng wheel
Remove upper and lower plastic steering column cowlings
remove swith gear (three flat long screws)
Pull off plugs etc
Chisel off shear bolt (8mm on column clamp)
Now the issue!...normally you would need to insert the key to withdraw the steering column lock to facilitate the clamp/lock assembly
Once off you need to drill a hole in the housing in order to access and push back the barrel retaining spring (the exact dimensions are kicking about somewhere on this forum) someone will post the diagram with the measurements I'm sure.

Best of luck.
Martin

davidoft1 wrote:i have an igniton barrel and steering lock with key if you find that yours in duff

Thanks, I may just take you up on that offer. Where are you based? How much?

Red Westie wrote:To remove the ignition lock:
Remove horn pad
Remove steerng wheel
Remove upper and lower plastic steering column cowlings
remove swith gear (three flat long screws)
Pull off plugs etc
Chisel off shear bolt (8mm on column clamp)
Now the issue!...normally you would need to insert the key to withdraw the steering column lock to facilitate the clamp/lock assembly
Once off you need to drill a hole in the housing in order to access and push back the barrel retaining spring (the exact dimensions are kicking about somewhere on this forum) someone will post the diagram with the measurements I'm sure.

Best of luck.
Martin

Sounds like I have a fun weekend ahead! Thanks Martin

Red Westie wrote:OK well something may have collapsed in the ignition lock I guess, although this would be quite unusual but not unheard of.
As for earthing points.
Practically all motor vehicles use something called a negative earth system (the car/van chassis/body acting as the return line in the electrical circuits. This basically cuts down on manufacturing costs (wire) and weight.
Therefore, It would be rather pointless having the earth wire going all the way back to the fuse box, that would be defeating the object.
The reason why earths are so critical is they are nearly always shared: a seperate positive feed going to each individual light but ONE collective earth lead attaching directly to the body somewhere fairly close to the consumer (in this case the rear lights)
I seem to recall several earth leads attached around the coil mounting, N/S/R of engine bay, I'm guessing one of these is for the rear lights.
Bad earths were common to VW/Audi range up until the early 90's, a quick work around was to make up and fit a seperate earth lead (a short piece of 2mm wire with eyelets either end) one side screwed directly into the back of the lamp holder with a self tapping screw going through the shared negative plate and the other attached to a suitable cleaned (bare) part of the chassis with screw or existing nut/bolt.
Martin

I think I have seen that when we took the engine out. Will check it.

psychonaut wrote:Behind the fusebox dood, which is behind the glove compartment, youi'll find all the earthing wires for the lights etc., terminating on a couple of circular earthing points with spade connectors. These are quite renowned apparently for corroding and causing poor earth faults.Take them off, and clean all the spades and the connectors on the circular thingies - you''ll be surprised at how much crud comes off them. A friend of mine had problems with the lights on his van a couple of weeks ago, and that was the root cause of the problem.

Can't help with the ignition problem though i'm afraid

Will clean this bit too. Can't hurt can it! Thanks

Bowman1 wrote:

davidoft1 wrote:i have an igniton barrel and steering lock with key if you find that yours in duff

Thanks, I may just take you up on that offer. Where are you based? How much?

£15 including postage

ps am near portsmouth

Brake and tail bulbs, replace them with LED equivalents (same fitting) - loads on ebay but try to get the slightly more expensive ones that give 'all round' light. They're miles brighter than stock bulbs and won't flatten your battery so quick if parked.

Thank you!!!! All sorted, I now have a working ignition and lovely bright lights.
Cheers, off to Switzerland we go...