Club 80-90 Forums

been having a poke around in the engine bay tonight, prior to it heading into the garage tomorrow

however i have noticed the rubber that goes around the engine bay appears to have "melted" in a couple of places, will this matter or am i ordering a new one???


piccys to help

Crickey. Thats tidy under the bonnet (boot)

The melted rubber will make zero difference, but I'd wonder why it got so hot. Is the thermostate ok? or have you wired it open.?

only had the van a few days, its Aircooled so no thermostat, or at least i don't think there is.....

Yes there is. its a metal belows thing that open and closes the flaps to the air inlets and oil cooler. Mine reptured and cooked the motor. I wired my flapsopen afterwards.

I am going to say they are fail unsafe - meaning the flaps close when the thermostate fails. Could be wrong but thats what I remember.

Somebody will be along in a mo and clarify it all.

Thats on the back part of the tin, but I cant see any seal around that left side.... is there any seal there??? or anywhere else around the engine????? or just a gap you can get your fingers in???

Thats not good... as I said in your other thread... I have seen loads of engine bays where the seal is missing and its not good for the engine... you cannot cool a hot engine with hot air... the seal is very important to keep the hot air out and feed the engine with nice cool air....

The spark plug blanks are missing too this will reduce the effective amount of air passing accross the engine....

seal does go all the way round


new leads on tomorrow so thats sorts that. theres a hole in the tinware on the left rear, so that'll need replacing then


where do i get a new rubber from?

OK... thats good if its got it...
Might want to try and find some second hand lengths.... as I think a new one is quite pricey... Just Kampers used to have them...

I have herd a few people say that the foam style tinware seal for bay windows fits these vans (engine dimensions and tinware follows mostly the same shape) and is a fraction of the price of the proper T25 stuff

http://www.justkampers.com/shop/type_2_ ... -seal.html

"frelling" hell £99.00 at JK

hmmmm, me thinks a wanted add is required.....

or may try the one above

Rincewind wrote:"frelling" hell £99.00 at JK

hmmmm, me thinks a wanted add is required.....

or may try the one above

Hence the post I put above - £15.61

Problem is the foam one needs a lip on the engine bay to seal... they fall out otherwise.... its not impossible to do, but there isnt much room as the rubber seal is not as big ... As I said... some used lengths of good original seal is a cheaper option... but have to find some...


You could look at it another way... you would spend £100 on a new radiator to keep your water cooled engine cool wouldnt you

ok, soon as i've sourced some new tinware, its new seal as well

seal is important, dont pi$$ about with other ones, buy the proper one cos 99 quid is cheaper than a new motor!!!

flaps fail to the full open position if the thermostat fails (or is missing!!)

make sure every bit of tinware is present inc the ones on the bottom of the heat exchangers and all the seals are sealed!!

where abouts is the thermostat so i can have a look

Under the engine in a bracket.. its a cylindrical "concertina" shape, should have a steel cable coming out of the top going up into the engine...

Most dont work now... but they normally fail safe.. ie the flaps will fail open for max airflow...

The flaps are mounted either end of the bar thats passing fan side of the dizzy in the pic.. put a dot of paint on the bar when cold start it up and get it warm.. if the dot has moved place (rotated) then the stat is working...

ANother thing... the black box on the left of the engine bay, between the coild and ignition amplifier... the 2 conections on it... unplug from the box and plug them directly together... the box is the ISU (Idle Stabilisation Unit) and these tend to fail and cause poor running... you dont really need it.. (and costly to replace if available) if the idle speed is a little low, tweak it up on each carb a fraction...