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front diff
Posted: 18 Jun 2009, 14:34
by justwill
Can i get into the diff lock from the front end of the diff housing? i dont want to disturb the VC if i dont have to cause it works at the mo and i know nowt about them so am relutent to pull it out
Cheers all.
Re: front diff
Posted: 18 Jun 2009, 17:25
by Mudlark
Best run what you want to do past Aidan; he will know for sure; but the VC housing is not a way in as far as I know.
Re: front diff
Posted: 18 Jun 2009, 18:11
by justwill
cheers, going to pull it apart in a bit and have a look, i want it back on the road

Re: front diff
Posted: 18 Jun 2009, 18:16
by manxman
the vc is a sealed unit so taking it out wouldn't cause it any problems, if you have to move it.
But as has been said wait for advice from Aidan
Re: front diff
Posted: 18 Jun 2009, 19:08
by Russel
Taking the front off gives access to the locking components and allows you to strip it down.
It is the best way to free off a locker.
Russel
Re: front diff
Posted: 18 Jun 2009, 19:11
by justwill
Russel at Syncro-Nutz wrote:Taking the front off gives access to the locking components and allows you to strip it down.
It is the best way to free off a locker.
Russel
Cheers chap. it looked that way but ive not got a book for it! How much are the acuators for the lockers? i knocked mine getting the diff out and smashed it

also after a full set of front cv boots. Can you include postage on that as im a far way from you.
Cheers
Will
Re: front diff
Posted: 18 Jun 2009, 19:23
by Russel
At precent no stock of boots but try Simon at Brick-yard
If its just the little air tube broken off then this can be drilled and replaced with a short pice of brake pipe.
Russel
Re: front diff
Posted: 18 Jun 2009, 19:28
by justwill
cheers will get on to him in the morning. My accuator now looks like a 20 piece 3d jigsaw puzzle or other wise known as fu**ed

Re: front diff
Posted: 18 Jun 2009, 20:41
by justwill
What colour is the silcon from the VC? Ive got bright green Gunky stuff round the front cover plate.
Re: front diff
Posted: 18 Jun 2009, 20:56
by Aidan
the flange sealant used is green from the factory
I can't get green anymore so use the blue one from Wurth which is same spec - they used to make the green one that Steyr used aparantly
but the loctite flange sealant generally available at motor factors is fine
use gear oil as the lube when reaming the diff lock sleeve and pin so as to lube the seal and some chemical react with the seal and it's the most expensive o ring on the planet it seems
top tip is remove vac unit before removing front diff especially first time unless you are Russel
same on refitting imho, it's too easy to f i u
Re: front diff
Posted: 19 Jun 2009, 11:08
by justwill
ive got it all sorted apart from the o ring on the outer sleve of the acuator bar

Dont know why i was worried about taking it to bits, its just a miniture uni-mog, if the back ends the same as the mogs as well i dont need a book for it.

Ive just found with a soak in hot water and a gator strecher 1303 gators will fit the inner CV, there streched a little further than i would like round the shaft will be interesting to see if they last

What oil should these run? ive got a drum of ep90 gear oil here that most stuff seems happy on if that will do? Also how much do they need?
Re: front diff
Posted: 19 Jun 2009, 13:16
by Aidan
1.5 litre gl5 80w/90 or 75w/90semisyn gl4/5