Club 80-90 Forums

Well, vwcamperfan has located my oil leak...and it is where I thought it probably was....crank oil seal. 2.1 running on carb.

While this is probably better than having to source push rod tubes....is this a job where the engine stays put, or does it have to come down?
Any pitfalls? How long should it take, and will I need a 240 box of PG tips!! Is this a job that can be tackled at the roadside...or should it really go to someone who knows what they are doing? Any specialist tools required?

Need to get it done before it gets any worse really.

Thanks folks

Em
access isn't great, I'm assuming you haven't got power steering. 30mm socket iirc for the pulley nut
You may need to source a pulley as well as the sealing face of the pulley itself is likely to be worn so new seal alone won't sort it.
I'd recommend the genuine seal 025 105 247 A, it's about three times the cost of the cheap copy but is much better as it has proper handed oil thrower lip to seal and thus likely to last much longer - if VW thought the cheaper seal was upto the job they would have used it themselves. - same with the input seal on the gearbox too, 60p from seal shop(£1.50+ JK and GSF) or £3.50 for the Elring seal as used by Porsche from Brickwerks, I know which I use.
Check the water pipe behind the pulley too while you are there for corrosion esp of the jubilees and replace if necessary
enjoy

Aidan wrote: Check the water pipe behind the pulley too while you are there for corrosion esp of the jubilees and replace if necessary
enjoy

Especially where the hose stop noggin sticks out on the larger curved one ... they braized the noggin on, heating the tube there and create a weak point where it rusts.

Teabags are ALWAYS handy ... you should know that by now ffs

Ian

I'm sure you have checked this, but when my 2.1 leaked from this seal it was due to crankcase pressure, the breather hose had collapsed!!!

T

Ian Hulley wrote:

Aidan wrote: Check the water pipe behind the pulley too while you are there for corrosion esp of the jubilees and replace if necessary
enjoy

Especially where the hose stop noggin sticks out on the larger curved one ... they braized the noggin on, heating the tube there and create a weak point where it rusts.

Teabags are ALWAYS handy ... you should know that by now ffs

Ian

Que??? I have no idea what that means....I have a hose stop noggin? Wow.... Perhaps it will become clear when the pulley is off.

Will deffo use the VW part. Will go looking for a new pulley too - don't want to do the job twice (more to the point - John won't want to do the job twice!!)

Aidan - you are correct in your assumption regarding power steering!

Quick question.....How do you stop the pulley turning when you are trying to tighten / untighten.....is leaving it in gear ok, or is there a better way? (the engine won't turn over as if a jump start will it - sorry if numpty question - still learning.)

Ian / Aidan - thanks for the help AGAIN!

Tony - actually haven't checked it so will do that first....but it did have a new breather about a year ago, a proper one, rather than the bit of manky pipe that was there! Thanks for the tip!!

Em
x

Emm, the 'noggin' is a small pin which sticks out from the curved pipe which stops the short rubber hose from sliding down it further than it should.

Ian.

Ta Ian.

Em
x

undoing the bolt against the engine and gearbox is fine, maybe be in the cab with foot on brake pedal while John loosens it to ease the load on the trans/clutch etc.
the ps pulley nut is done up tighter and more difficult to undo

Aidan - thanks for that. Am i right in thinking that you mean the power steering nut when you say ps nut is tighter...

Em
x

indeed ps = power steering