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Re: !!!Advice needed -Update

Postby jake1953 » less than a minute ago
Right. I changed the high pressure switch. 22mm long reach socket. unbolted the exhaust cover bolt just below the switch,pulled it back a bit and wedged a hammer shaft to keep it away from the switch area. Easier than I thought with access from the top.
However, the bloddy buzzer & light still come on. Checked the low pressure switch and the terminals are clean.
I can't seem to separate the two pin connection (on top of the engine) which connects the low and high pressure cables
separately. Any advice on this so that I can check these terminals?
It Is a 1.9 petrol waterboxer dg engine. no smoke, really quick of the mark and pulls really well. Just the bod problem
Jake

I tend to use the junction box in the engine bay as a source for checking wiring, etc. Viewed from the rear it's situated on the rear panel on the left of the engine and the cover just unclips exposing two multipin connectors. The colour code for the 0.9Bar switch is yellow. I would check that the yellow wire connects to chassis when the engine is started from cold and stays connected to chassis when the engine RPM is increased. If it isn't 'grounding' then the Buzzer will sound when you exceed 2000 RPM. You could link this wire to chassis and see if the buzzer stops. If it does then your DOPs circuit sounds as though its functioning correctly and you either have low pressure, a fault in the wiring or a malfunctioning switch (you replaced that tho').

Just a thought, I have never heard of a problem with the oil pressure relief valve on this forum but I have experienced problems on other engines, particulartly if it isn't closing properly and oil is getting past the valve or the spring has weakend. Its easy to check, clean the gallery and measure the length of the spring. If the wiring checks out OK you may have to get the oil pressure checked properly.

Thanks for the info Angelo. will check the engine bay junction box later today. Just a thought, all was normal but I decided to clean the engine bay panelwork with wet cloth. only after this has the buzzer/light problem started.
So i'll check the connections and finish off with a hair drier teratment!

Good luck, hopefully, like others have advised you, if it sounds Ok then it probably is!

I checked and cleaned every terminal i could see in the junction box. some were oxidised and others looked brand new.
however still the same problem.
I disconnected the lead off the high pressure switch and guess what ? Yep the buzzer and light still come on after 2000 rpm

i have the same problem so i decided to install an oil preasure guage (so i know exactly what is going on, I disconected the low preasure sender (the one between the pushrods) and fitted a flexable pipe about a foot long and mounted it in the engine bay as i drive a syncro (M10x1.0 male to M10x1.0 female) and then installed a VDO oil presure sender conected to a vdo oil preasure gauge, and have earther the wire to from the high presure sener as the buzzer and the light was still going off with a warm oil (90 degrees c) and an oil preasure of 1.5 bar. hope that this helps neil

jake1953 wrote:I checked and cleaned every terminal i could see in the junction box. some were oxidised and others looked brand new.
however still the same problem.
I disconnected the lead off the high pressure switch and guess what ? Yep the buzzer and light still come on after 2000 rpm

It has to be grounded not disconnected, open circuit (disconnected) is the low oil pressure condition, grounded to chassis is the normal pressure condition. The white connector that you had difficulty with needs to be checked, it should just pull apart. The yellow wire connects to a brown. short the yellow to chassis and see if that cures the problem.