Club 80-90 Forums

When my new exhaust comes this week end do I need to use any paste to fit or are the gaskets enough? Thanks As always

Always best to have a tube of white firegum to apply a smear on sliding joints etc. If the two sufaces use a gasket and are new there should be no need. I also tend to use a smear on olived joints. Thing to remember is don't use too much, you don't want it ousing out inside the pipes etc.
Martin

Thanks Martin, anyone other tips?

don't eat yellow snow! no,but seriously,what ^^martin^^ said.i once had a mini i slapped too much paste on a joint and it kept coughing and wheezing,turned out it had got inside the pipe and was almost completely blocking the exhaust gasses escaping!

Never used paste
just cleaned the surfaces properly.
New VW gaskets mould themselves well.

There is an article on replacing a T25 exhaust in Volks World Camper & bus issue 2. I saw it in W.H.Smiths today. The mag costs £4.95.
Sid

Thanks, evryone.

If you havent already done so put lots of easing oil or similar on all the old fixings. But be prepared for them to break, especially the studs at the rear. Just done mine last week and 3 of the 4 studs snapped off & had to be helicoiled.

This was due mainly to a lack of previous maintenance by the last owner but having looked on here its not uncommon. It was one of those jobs which took longer than expected.
Good luck
Jamie

One stud is missing already, that is the main reason for putting a new exhaust on as the current one blows. I have plus gas , wire brush, copperslip, & will be borrowing a helicoil set, Fingers crossed

Remove all the studs and fit bolts all round it makes life a lot easier if you have to remove the zorst in the future you can drop it in one piece. Copper slip on exhaust will probably not be there with the prolonged heat, not tested results over time thats just my gut feeling. Duralac is an anti seize compound made for aerospace that is designed for challenging environments, turns to a powder and prevents bimetallic corrosion.
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When my local garage fitted new exhaust pipes to my van they used set screws with nuts on. They ran a nut up to the head of a slightly longer set screw which was then screwed into the head and the nut was then used to clamp the exhaust. This seemed a good idea to me since to remove the exhaust you only need to slacken off the nuts then unscrew the setscrews. You are also using all the available thread in the head without having to have the exact length of bolt or screw.
Sid

Hi mate i changed the zorst on my beloved last week and the bolts snapped off so after welding a nut on to the rest of the stud i then soaked it in wd40 left it for a while and whent back to it , after much sweet talking to the cylinder head to let it go bingo out it came. If the the nuts are all well rusted try heating them up with a blow lamp and give it a go. hope tis helps dude.

the old exhaust came off yesterday, 5 1/2 hours. Lots of plus gas, wire brush, & hammer on sockets to get a grip on rusty bolts.
The stud situation was as follows:
1 x missing, (no bolt or stud just a void, this was the reason I am replacing the exhaust as it was mildly blowing as it couldn't be tightened) will prob have to helicoil.
1 x bolt with a 13mm head
1 x bolt with 1/2 inch head
1 x bolt with 7/8 inch head
2 x 6mm allen key heads
1 x stud with rounded off nut, (hacksawed the nut off managed to save the stud, altough it is a bit shorter than it should be, but i think it is ok)
1 x stud with a nut, 10mm spanner to small, 11mm spanner to big, no way of getting a socket of any kind on, so hacksaw again.