Club 80-90 Forums

I've noticed that the right side (offside) hydraulic tappets of my 2.1 wbx have just started to rattle which isn't normal. The van hasn't been used properly for 6 months as its been in the bodyshop for most of the time with Dave Unit10.

I've resorted the oil BOD (bad earth) and now am concerned about the rattle.

I need to ask if this rattle can be checked with the engine in.(ie. take the heads off)...or does the engine have to come out?

Low on funds doesn't help things at the moment..

a good run will stop them rattling..

like Rob say run it , then do an oil change , then run it and let us know that its settled down.
It will have leaked down a wee bit

Although I have a diesel, I have always had a tappet problem for the first 20 mins after start up then it finally cured itself.

The other week I used a winns engine flush, which comes in a red bull sized can from GSF and the difference is truly amazing.
I now have no tappet noise from start up as before, and the engine seems to be running soooo much smoother.
Can't say if it will work for the petrol engines,but at six quid a can I'm happy for the mo.
Rob.

That is very interesting as the tappet adjustment mechanism is entirely different on a Diesel engine (hydraulic oil filled ellements on the wasserboxer petrol engine compared to solid interchangeable shims on a Diesel)
lhd....when was the last time you had your tappet clearances checked? 0.2 - 0.3mm inlet, 0.4 - 0.5mm Exhaust warm engine. Most back street garages SAY they have been checked but VERY FEW actually have the follower push down tool and shims to actually check and adjust tappets, also, because Diesel engines are noisey anyway, they know they can get away with it. This is a friendly bit of information that all who run original VW Diesels should be acutely aware of! every 12,000 miles but generally once done just need the odd shim change on main services.
Martin

That is very interesting as the tappet adjustment mechanism is entirely different on a Diesel engine (hydraulic oil filled ellements on the wasserboxer petrol engine compared to solid interchangeable shims on a Diesel)
lhd....when was the last time you had your tappet clearances checked? 0.2 - 0.3mm inlet, 0.4 - 0.5mm Exhaust warm engine. Most back street garages SAY they have been checked but VERY FEW actually have the follower push down tool and shims to actually check and adjust tappets, also, because Diesel engines are noisey anyway, they know they can get away with it. This is a friendly bit of information that all who run original VW Diesels should be acutely aware of! every 12,000 miles but generally once done just need the odd shim change on main services.
Martin

The difference on mine since the wins stuff is unbelievable.
Maybe it was a blocked oil pipe or something as the noise hasn't come back.

ps I have never had the shims checked.
Rob.

This evening i ran the engine on idle for 15/ 20 mins with no change..it still rattled...so this w/e its gonna be a engine flush, oil n filter change, some shell v power fuel, and then to see what happens then..if there's no change then i'll replace the hydraulic tappets..just hope this isn't the start of a MONEY PIT!!!!

Thats funny, our van suddenly has a really noisy tappet today, not a problem we usually have. Maybe it's come out in sympathy?
Mind you it did also pass the MOT today (on the retest) so you can't have it all. Due an oil change so its a constant accoustic reminder till I do it.....

you were advised to take it for a good run.not run the engine on idle for 15/ 20 mins.that will have no affect...

This evening i ran the engine on idle for 15/ 20 mins with no change

Drew64 wrote:This evening i ran the engine on idle for 15/ 20 mins with no change..it still rattled...so this w/e its gonna be a engine flush, oil n filter change, !!!

By all means change the oil and filter.

take some time and read up on Hydraulic tappets. (wiki)

But above all else...Take it out on the road man!
do a Half hour drive , work the engine... Oh and read the posts

Slightly unrelated I know.......HEAVY TAPPET NOISE...I remember this was common on PDI (pre-delivery inspection) for the wasserboxer engined transporters. Sometimes the only way to clear it.....bareing in mind these were brand new vehicle's at the time, was to redline or even bounce the valves on a hot engine. We would take them out after PDI with trade plates, get them up to temperature and take them down the lings bar (fast road in Nottm) redlining the engine in gear. point is sometimes it was the only was to to get rid of the tappet noise.
I'm not suggesting you should be doing this on an ageing wasserleaker but clearly it needs to be hot and run at high engine speed to purge the air from those ellements.
Martin

kevtherev wrote:

Drew64 wrote:This evening i ran the engine on idle for 15/ 20 mins with no change..it still rattled...so this w/e its gonna be a engine flush, oil n filter change, !!!

By all means change the oil and filter.

take some time and read up on Hydraulic tappets. (wiki)

But above all else...Take it out on the road man!
do a Half hour drive , work the engine... Oh and read the posts

I've now done the engine flush, changed the oil and filter and have give the van a run out..the resultant is...It's still the same..especially as the noise is only coming from the right cylinder head and the engine runs slightly uneven..so nows time to remove the head and give it the once over...i'm so sick of this van as with it being banged at Deva 08, spending 6 months off the road being repaired and now this..i'm thinking of just getting it fixed and selling the van...whatever happened to that motto 'if everything in life was as reliable as a volkswagen'..bah!!

Drew64 wrote:I've now done the engine flush, changed the oil and filter and have give the van a run out..the resultant is...It's still the same..especially as the noise is only coming from the right cylinder head and the engine runs slightly uneven..so nows time to remove the head and give it the once over...i'm so sick of this van

whooa.
Right you've eliminated the easy fix.
I wouldn't be removing heads just yet, just the rocker cover on the right side.

When I had a noisey tappet I found that one of the adjusters had unscrewed or was badly set. That made it impossible for the tappet to fill with oil as there was no preload on it

If you read about the tappets you would have noticed that you can reset a noisy one.
I did it this way.
Warm up the engine a bit (5mins) to pump up the tappets.
took off the rocker cover
Rotated the engine till No.1 was on the firing stroke (TDC)
pushed by hand the rockers on No.1 over the pushrod to see if there was any movement on inlet and exhaust.
did the same for No. 2
If there was any movement ( felt squishy )
I backed the adjuster right off untill the rocker was loose on the valve and rod.
then tightened it back up by hand till finger tight.
used the screwdriver to tighten it a further two turns and locked it off.

took it for a long run and it worked.
if it doesn't then the tappet is shagged.

Cheers mate for the notes. Will post once i've done everything.

If all else fails cry