Club 80-90 Forums

Hi everybody - great to see some sunny weather!

Been spending some time sorting out my leaky sump on diesel AAZ engine. All nice and tight with one of Simon Baxter's rubber gaskets and a couple of helicoiled holes - but still leaking (grrr!)

Have small crack on corner of sump at front just behind the bottom pulley - crack about 1/4 inch and oil seeping through so still have back door & windown covered in fine oil mist all the time and leaks underneath whenever stopped.

What are chances of fixing this crack without removing sump again? I don't want to risk stripping more threads and not leaking anywhere at all from gasket anymore. Have tried some of that epoxy metal stuff and didn't work. Thinking of brazing with HTS-2000 rods, but would have to work upside down, and is it ok to heat the sump in situ with a propane torch? If I attempt this, should I at least drain oil first?

Would appreciate any thoughts of 'alternative remedies' for this - or from anyone who has successfully done aluminium brazing repair using HTS-2000.

Many thanks,
Talking Whippet

Rubber gasket ? is this a windage tray type or a gasket that fits just between the block&sump.Reason i ask i have a 1.6td sump on a 1.9n 1Y engine.I took the sump off recently to replace the oil pump and used a GSF gasket that was not rubber but a heat resistant grey material.It took me aprox 30 mins removing the sump the tricky bolts recessed at the gearbox end can be removed with an extention for a allen key.I dont think you will be able to use a brazing process due to oil ingression in the crack& heat sink properties of the aluminium sump & the cast iron block.Why not remove the sump & take it to a welding engineer to weld the crack.Refit ensuring the gearbox end of the sump is lined up to the block end with the sump bolts loose before you tighten.When i replaced the angled sump i used a light application of blue hymol gasket sealent and the GSF grey gasket between the block & nipped up the bolts no leaks to date. Saw this on the web about the product Will it work for your job? YES! This high-strength brazing rod allows you to repair or fabricate aluminum stronger than a Tig welding machine, without the machine. No welding aluminum needed! All you need to repair any metal stronger than new is a heat source (propane or mapp gas), a turbo tip, or oxy-acetylene, and our material. This new repair technology performs well on aluminum, cast aluminum, pot metal, copper, magnesium, and all white or porous metals. You can easily repair corroded or oil-impregnated areas that can be next to impossible to fix using welding machines with aluminum welding rods or other brazing products.The claim about oil impregnated areas is interesting.

You could always try Wynns Engine Stop Leak:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... _langId_-1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The rubber seals on my WBX water jacket were leaking & I found the answer in 80/90 wiki was Wynns Radiator Stop Leak. When I went to buy some I noticed their Engine Stop Leak at Halfords for £4.99. The radiator stop leak worked, so maybe this stuff does as well.

Best of luck.

hi
did you mean the Wynns Radiator Stop Leak worked or the engine stop leak as the last one is for oil as i think my water jacket has a small leak but no water signs in the oil just a small amount of water on the engine by the water jacket?
any help would be greatful cheers

It isn't that much trouble to remove the sump, compared to making a dog's dinner of it in situ, and then having further problems, surely?

HTS-2000.

Haven't ever used this but done a fair bit of conventional oxy-acetylene brazing in the past & recently brazed some outlet unions to a big oil storage tank that others couldn't weld them to without leaking, so there's hope yet..

No great experience with ally brazing, but it should work, t's all in the flux and the preparation with brazing.

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Then you have to ask why is this cracking there, are you cleaning & chasing all those threads out, flatting off any burrs on mating faces, and lightly nipping the sump up before tightening those long bellhousing through bolts?
The only time I've heard of a cracked sump was due to not nipping the sump screws up in stages, especially pulling it back with the big bellhousing bolts gently.

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Drop it off, clean it thoroughly with powerful degreasants, braze it up, and refit it carefully.. I've used the combined windage tray/gasket twice now without probs, but I know the grey GSF gasket also works OK.

..but be careful with those threads & screws up around the flywheel area, they can get crossed easily. If you use the combinec windage tray gasket you'll need longer bolts, see here...

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Di ... p/Oil_Pump