Club 80-90 Forums

Hi Folks !

I've got a 2.1 Injection, and its started doing the following :

1. When the engine has armed up, if I switch it off, the ignition does not attempt to turn the engine over until its cooled down. The lights on the dash all work but tuning the key does nothing, no click of a solenoid, no turning over, nowt. After 20 mins starts fine.

2. After a bit of motorway driving i.e the engine is hot, it starts "missing" feels like when u almost run out of fuel and start kangarooing. It does not do it all the time and seems to do it on less than full throttle. Sitting at 60 seems to do it, also when gently pulling away from roundabouts.

Help !!


Ta

Hi Gareth,

You might want to put the engine type in the title to grab a bit more attention but im sure someone will be along soon to help.

I cant help because its not a smelly diesel......

Ringo

Can't suggest anything for number one, but number two happened to me a couple of years ago. I filled up at a small, isolated, independant garage oop norf which only had 'happy shopper' petrol (95 RON unleaded) and while driving home down the motorway my van behaved exactly as you've described. It must have been the petrol because I topped it up (with 'premium' 97 RON) when it was half way down the tank and although it still did it, it did it less. I just kept topping it up with premium and eventually it stopped altogether.

Now I know lots of folk on here say a 2.1 inj can run on bog standard unleaded but I beg to differ, and so for that matter does my van............

I suppose the main bullet point of this rather lengthy and detailed reply is: what petrol you putting in it??

Point 1. take off your cowling, under steering wheel, and wiggle the black connector that goes by your ignition barrel.
That sorted mine out.

or a bad connection by the starter motor

Point 2. Mine does it a little, So will try super unleaded, until engine is run in, will report back. (would octaine booster work, just as well?)

1664 wrote:Can't suggest anything for number one, but number two happened to me a couple of years ago. I filled up at a small, isolated, independant garage oop norf which only had 'happy shopper' petrol (95 RON unleaded) and while driving home down the motorway my van behaved exactly as you've described. It must have been the petrol because I topped it up (with 'premium' 97 RON) when it was half way down the tank and although it still did it, it did it less. I just kept topping it up with premium and eventually it stopped altogether.

Now I know lots of folk on here say a 2.1 inj can run on bog standard unleaded but I beg to differ, and so for that matter does my van............

I suppose the main bullet point of this rather lengthy and detailed reply is: what petrol you putting in it??

Now you come to mention it, this is the first time I have let the tank run almost dry and then fill it up again, after filling up again on the way back from Wales it did bunnyhop a bit less, might try adding some additive, can u put in posh unleaded into an old engine?

eatcustard wrote:Point 1. take off your cowling, under steering wheel, and wiggle the black connector that goes by your ignition barrel.
That sorted mine out.

or a bad connection by the starter motor

Point 2. Mine does it a little, So will try super unleaded, until engine is run in, will report back. (would octaine booster work, just as well?)

Ta, I'll give it a go !

Forgot to mention

To use 95 ron unleaded you need to retard the ignition a little (so Haynes manual says)

1664 wrote: Now I know lots of folk on here say a 2.1 inj can run on bog standard unleaded but I beg to differ, and so for that matter does my van............

Slap in some premium Gareth and see if that fixes it...

Ringo

okeydokey, I've put in some additive and so far no hiccups.

I have found somehting on my ignition problem mind, and I need help identifying a part.

When I turn the ignition key and hold it on (no starting) if I get somebody to tap the part below it starts straight away.

Anybody know what it is???





Ta !

Idle speed control valve,
Take the electrical connection off, and there are two hoses to ease off and it will come away from the support bracket together with the rubber mounting.
A bit of WD 40 squirted in to the openings, and a check of the electrical connections for cleanliness etc. and it will probably work OK.

I was looking at a petrol Golf the other day and it had a very similar item fitted. Didn't check the part number though.

Mike

Mr Haynes manual says its your Idle speed control valve

Hi There, you need a Haynes Manual.

That bit is the idle control stabilization valve. It bleeds air past the throttle body to raise the tickover when the engine is cold and when the alternator or power steering has load on it. It should buzz when you have the ignition switched on. It simulates just cracking open the throttle a bit. It has a relay block behind the rear right tail lamp.

Your poor running could be down to a few things.

The track on your air flow meter might be dirty at a particular spot, giving lumpy running. It's a bit technical to do if you are very inexperienced, but should only take 30 mins if you are confident.

The injectors might have a poor spray pattern. This would cause lumpy running, but would be for most of the time.

The fuel pressure regulator might be on it's way out.

The fuel filter could be full and need changing, if the van has not been run for a time regularly then it will have all sorts of muck in the bottom.

My answer for everything now a days is Rolling road tune it, then any problem areas will rear there heads and will be easier to identify.

The last idea is wiring, wiring and wiring. The brain (to be kind to it) of the 2.1 ecu is a solid state thingy which takes readings from various inputs, and then gives certain outputs for fuelling. All these are pre determined by the technicians at VW in the early 1980's, it works great if everything is within vw tolerances, but cannot cope with things being outside the norm, no tell-tale light or plug in diagnostics. What I am getting at is that if you have one corroded terminal from any of the engine sensors then the whole thing will run rough. It is worth getting out the wd-40 and going over all your wiring, cleaning it as you go.

If you search on the above topics you will find some useful info on diy remedies.

I always use Shell V Power if I can get it, it keeps the engine clean, and this is a very high compression engine which needs it to get it great fuel economy

Giving the engine bay a good clean with WD-40, and keeping it well dosed helps prevent rusty terminals and intermittent probs.

Good luck

Simon.

Regarding premium unleaded, I have used some now and it has made a huge difference to it.

Now is additive better or stick to the expensive stuff?

Thanks for the replies people !

I stuffed in some additive and octane booster no hiccups yet ....

I rang VW for the Idle Valve-no longer supplied.

Rang GSF no luck..

Rang Europarts - no luck..

Anybody have any suggestions for a new part? Is it the same as on any other VW? otherwise I'll start ringing scrappies....


Cheers !

Item 56 025906457A control valve

BASIC GERMAN PRICELIST
part number 025906457A
Partnumber Title Price
025906457A VENTIL 216.5 Euro

If it works when you tap it, give it an internal squirt of WD 40, and check the electrical connections are sound.
You could measure the resistance of the valve Haynes says 2 to 10 ohms, but you said it works with a clout, so either intermittant electrical supply or more likely just gunged up. here is another post on the subject....... just do a search at the top of the page for more.

by big red bus » Fri Feb 22, 2008 8:26 pm

Have experience very same problem with my 2.1 auto. Cannot say for sure what cured mine but I did all thes and the problem has been gone 12 months now. First clean out the idle stabilisation valve (isv). Common problem item and a good clean with brake cleaner or something similar makes it like new again. Then behind o/s rear light there is a black control unit box with a load of wires going into it. ( you need to remove light to gain access)Unplug block connector and make sure no terminals are corroded and are making a good contact. Then refit plug and unit and try. Other likely causes could be filter blocked, fuel pump relay, fuel pump etc. Try the simple cheaper options first as normally most problems are easily fixed. Hope this helps.big red bus

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Mike