Club 80-90 Forums

as it says really. i have finally managed to get hold of an original electronic dizzy and would like to check it before i take me old one off. (my bus is missing it's timing marks so i don't want to disturb the dizzy till i know the new one works)
i have all the ascociated bits in duplicate as mine was electronic, converted to points before i got it.

if i simply wire it to my coil and all the other bits, then spin it by hand checking for a spark with the coil lead would that work? hope someone can help.

the dizzy i've got came from a 1.6 aircold, does anyone know of any reason it would be unsuitable? it looks like the proper un with the double vaccuum effort etc so i am presuming its the same.

Rozzo wrote:as it says really. i have finally managed to get hold of an original electronic dizzy and would like to check it before i take me old one off. (my bus is missing it's timing marks so i don't want to disturb the dizzy till i know the new one works)
i have all the ascociated bits in duplicate as mine was electronic, converted to points before i got it.

if i simply wire it to my coil and all the other bits, then spin it by hand checking for a spark with the coil lead would that work? hope someone can help.

the dizzy i've got came from a 1.6 aircold, does anyone know of any reason it would be unsuitable? it looks like the proper un with the double vaccuum effort etc so i am presuming its the same.

What's wrong with the current dizzy ?

As it's a 1.6 litre CT you should be able to make it run with a standard (non-electronic) single vacuum advance distributor since that engine also uses a Solex 34 Pict-3 carburetor (the same as my 1793 1300 beetle fitted with a 1600 twinport engine). Alternatively you could get a new hall sender for your current one (I've just read that it's a hall sender based distributor, where as the original one had points).

Alternatively you could get a new hall sender for your current one (I've just read that it's a hall sender based distributor, where as the original one had points).

Baxter's your man for this although they aint cheap....



If I were testing a dizzy I would have a plug in a lead earthed up to the engine and the dizzy set to fire on that plug, then with the ignition on and the dizzy loose rotated it to before and after that plug you should get a spark

If it's still on remove the idle stabiliser - it's a small plastic pack next to the main ignition unit fixed to the engine bay back left corner - these were renowned for causing problems.

Also have you got the correct coil fitted? - there are points and electronic versions.... might also be worth doing a resistance check on the coil too

Doug

phade wrote:

Rozzo wrote:as it says really. i have finally managed to get hold of an original electronic dizzy and would like to check it before i take me old one off. (my bus is missing it's timing marks so i don't want to disturb the dizzy till i know the new one works)
i have all the ascociated bits in duplicate as mine was electronic, converted to points before i got it.

if i simply wire it to my coil and all the other bits, then spin it by hand checking for a spark with the coil lead would that work? hope someone can help.

the dizzy i've got came from a 1.6 aircold, does anyone know of any reason it would be unsuitable? it looks like the proper un with the double vaccuum effort etc so i am presuming its the same.

What's wrong with the current dizzy ?

As it's a 1.6 litre CT you should be able to make it run with a standard (non-electronic) single vacuum advance distributor since that engine also uses a Solex 34 Pict-3 carburetor (the same as my 1793 1300 beetle fitted with a 1600 twinport engine). Alternatively you could get a new hall sender for your current one (I've just read that it's a hall sender based distributor, where as the original one had points).

sorry? did i say there was summat up with the dizzy?
my bus is a 2l Aircooled which should be electronic, as said it was converted to points before i got it.
i now have an electronic dizzy which i wish to test before i bother to fit it.
do keep up at the back