Club 80-90 Forums

Hello my helpful friends,

My beautifully crafted german van broke down again today. Very annoying as It's been running sweet for months

Well i got in and tried to start it and NOTHING happened. I thought AH i know the problem, it's the starter motor. Checked the wires, gave em a clean. went to start and NOTHING. Got a friend to tap the solinoid and NOTHING.

Called RAC, he came checked the feed to the starter motor and it was only recieving a 8v Pulse. Connected 12v power from his van to the starter mother and RUMMRUMMMMRRRUM. Lovely jubely.

He claims this could be a fault of the auto box relay tingy. He described it as the relay switch that protects the enginge starting in anything but park. Does this ring true?

If so where to get a new switch and where is it located in the van?

Many thanks in advance

Colin

x

Yes its true that you have a inhibiter switch fitted to stop van being started in gear, will start in park and neutrel. Is your battery in good condition? Not to sure but think the switch in either at the base of the gear stick under cowling or on the side of the box. Sure some one else will be along to help soon,

Cheers bigredbus,

The battery is a good quality bosch battery that is only 1 year old. Hopefull someone will be able to tell where to get a new switch if that is the problem.

Thanks for the reply.

Colin, Have a look here.......
http://www.club80-90.co.uk/pages/downlo ... %20Ass.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Page 3 of 20 shows the 'contact plate' that allows start in the 'P' and 'N' positions.

Have not got an auto myself.
Mike

I have an autobox.
There isnt a relay, but the signal from the ignition switch goes through a contact arangement at the base of the gear selector lever.
The 'switch' is two sprung contacts that touch a metal plate.
Take the cover off and you will see two contact plates, one is for the reversing lights.

Clean them up and cross your fingers.
T

Thanks T,

I'll have a look, i'll be very supprised if its due to a dirty contact plate

Does anyone have an idea of what else it may be. What would be causeing the power problem. Although its a new battery it does get disconected often. But i had been driving it for a few hours prior to this happening so i'm sure the battery is fully charged and in good nick.

Any ides would be great

thanks


Colin

I love this Tech section, people ask for help/advice, others go out of their way to make suggestions,,,,,,,,,,,then the question poser goes away and follows the advice given......

Seem to work fine for most of the people on here..........

i'll be very supprised if its due to a dirty contact plate

DR,,,,
If you don't check it out you will never know,,,,,,,


Regards


Fritz,,,,,,,,,,

Thanks fritz

I'll be sure to be the perfect forum user from now on and never ask a stupid question or a comment ever ever again.

Supprisingly the first thing i'm gonna do when i get home from work will be to follow Tonytech's advice, funny that, to me that seems the reason why i asked the question in the first place.

Thanks for your help Fritz I wouldn't of done that otherwise

Hi,
I have the same problem which is now partly solved.
1) The inhibitor switch, actually a brass contact plate in the gear stick cowling, collects dust/fluff. You can
sometimes see the power arcing/flashing on this plate when starting up in the dark. Clean with emery cloth and smear with vaseline. This will protect against damp but will also help dust etc to stick-- so keep a check on it.
2) My battery is in good nick but after standing idle for a week, turn ignition key--completely dead. I think the alarm is draining it but havn't had time to check. It will do this when the battery is down to 10volts so I keep a solar charger on it.
Hope this helps.
Don

Hi The brass contacts can also wear out over time constantly rubbing togeather mine did got new ones from VW about 2 years ago ,part no switch 171927145A ,carrier 311927147B. Easy to do

I've been out today and checked out this brass contact switch, i've cleaned it all and double checked that everything is contacting. There is still nothing when i turn the engine.

Dont really know where to start?

Possibly the battery? I'm gonna get a multimeter and check the battery

I guess its something to do with only getting an 8v pulse to the starter motor. What could be causing this?

Thanks

Colin

Lots of useful info here Colin.
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=49646" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Scroll down, the answer should be amongst this lot.
Have you got 12 volts (battery voltage) at pin 50 of the ignition switch (Red/Black wire) when the key is held in the start position?
May be more easily measured at the input side of the contact(s) you cleaned in the gear selector console.
Mike

Grun wrote: Have you got 12 volts (battery voltage) at pin 50 of the ignition switch (Red/Black wire) when the key is held in the start position?

Thanks Mike,

I've got hold of a multimeter, the battery is showing 12.87 so thats very healthy. The ignition switch wire is showing nothing when held in the start position but that maybe to me not having a good earth.

How do you check a good earth with a multimeter?

The switch is showing a loop, so i think the contacts are ok.

I think i may take the ignition cowling off and have a looksy to check all the wiring is correct there.

Thanks again

I'm gonna have another read for that thread you pointed out.

How do you check a good earth with a multimeter?

Easy way is connect red meter probe (meter set to 20 volt DC) to a known live, (terminal 30 on the ignition switch is always live with battery connected) and the black lead to the earth point you have chosen. If you read battery volts the earth is good.

Then move the red probe to terminal 50 and if there is no reading with the key in the start position the ignition switch contacts are suspect.

Mike

Thank you everyone and thank you Mike,

It's fixed now, the problem seemed to be the ignition switch.

When i checked there was a live feed from terminal 30 and i was able to hot wire it, so to me it seemed it was the ignition switch as it was the only thing between terminal 30 and terminal 50 to cause any problem.

I had just recently ordered a new ignition housing from fleabay and this came with an ignition switch, it was simply a case of swapping the old for the new, now it starts beautifully.

Thanks for all your help