Club 80-90 Forums

Just looking through the WiKi and found that Vactan rust converter is recommended. Just wondering what peoples experiences are with this product and the best way to use and apply it?

Only apply when temp is over 50 degrees F whatever that is in euros 2 coats and jobs a good un

I don't think so.
jaylo

As long as you're not hoping to halt massive rot with it or only able to get to one side of it, its great. Have a friend who has a narrowboat and we've done enless tests on rusty areas, painting it on, leaving it for months, even a year and it seems to stabilise it brilliantly with no paint at all. Just bear in mind that there is no substitute (so far) for cutting out crap and replacing it with new. You can only slow rust down.

I've run vactan into difficult areas like inside of the bottoms of doors and tailgate etc as a precautionary measure prior to waxoyl and that worked well. Its a great thing to carry to deal with stone chips and scrapes too, until you have time to deal with it fully. If the vactan didn't work, either there was more rot than you thought or you're not getting to all of it and yes pointless applying on damp or cold days as you're just sealing the rot and water in then.

I put some on seams where rust was just poking through 12 months ago and it stopped the rust in its tracks. Other places where I didn't bother because there was less rust are now much worse than the areas I treated.

I've been using it for over a year now and I have found it to be very good

As for applying it, its very runny so (depending on where you use it) it can run into nooks and crannies. Its just important to realise, particularly with some areas like seams, chances are its rusty behind so it may well push the vactan off while its being fed with oxygen on the reverse side. Rust only needs a pinhole of access to the air to get going again.

Very rotten areas should be replaced. Its too much to expect vactan to solve such areas although it will seriouly retard progression.

Do wear gloves. This stuff sets on your fingers like black evostik and is a devil to get off. On any area, carfully check (where possible) just how far the rust has gone on the reverse side and don't leave huge flakes of rust, clean up the area the very best you can first. Wire brush, whatever.

I do know that the military use it and its popular in the boating world. You can always try a piece of rusty metal, a washer possibly, give it a coat and leave it out in the elements for a few months. That should dispel any doubts. No shortage of rust 'treatments' around, its just that Vactan worked the best for me and countless others on here as well. The only time its ever seemingly lt me down was where I rushed the job or was too lazy to clean the area properly. Scratching the area also helps to get a key - worth remembering that.

I can't remember if I'd read somewhere that you shouldn't apply it to good bare metal, I hope that's not the case.

Not read that or had any probs applying to bare metal. Might be less of a key on shiney metal tho.

jaylo264 wrote:I don't think so.
jaylo

Agreed, see previous vactan threads on here.

Tony

My jury is out.....

Have tried on some bits of rust on the bodywork to see if it will hold it back as I can't get round to dealing with these. Seems to be holding so far.

I have been given a trailer with four very rusty wheels (surface/flaking etc) - I am attempting my own experiments on these (unscientific - slap it on half the wheel - then prime and paint - do nowt to the other half except wire brush - prime and paint.

Plan to use underneath on rust after prep then cover with underseal/wax stuff.

Have tried all except por metal ready , and have gone back to kurust, see previous posts for research . Have found the best for me , in chilly dampish north scottish carport , is 2 types of kurust , the gel one you are supposed to wash off if i can access the area , tho i tend to just toothbrush it and let dry ; and the one like phosphoric acid you let dry and its gone black , if position is less accesible ;
then, ALWAYS , an etch/weld primer called etchweld , a bit better than all the rest , not saying much ; then ALWAYS , red oxide ( or sometimes,but much less good, grey hibuild stuff if on a "pretty" , visible panel ) , this fully seals the primer ; i scrape this off any areas to be welded , spray etchweld on agin, weld , spray e/w agin , then red oxide over top , then seam seal with red stripe if need / possible ( love it ) or start the top coats with pu L90D .
The van has been intentionally immobile since july last , and areas i only vactanned ( warm) are quite easy to peel .Kurust and eastwood encapsulator don't peel, but do now show ,like the vactan , a freckling of rust pimples , and this is only from damp air , not rain or snow or dog pee .
jayslow

Again there seems to be confusion here with rust remover and rust stabiliser. They are not the same thing.

Well , that seems to have stopped it ...........
jayglo

Well , that seems to have stopped it ...........

.....what - the rust! Forum Magic.......