Club 80-90 Forums

I'd appreciate some guidance/comfort!

I've managed to blow my lessthanoneyearold recon engine by gambling on the dilution of a small accidental petrol fill up!
I can't afford a recon 1.6d, and research has suggested a 1.9d 1Y engine could prove to be a relatively easy and cheap alternative? I know there's much info on here, but it does leave me confused. Surely this option should come in way below the £1,500 minimum it will cost for recovery to, say Elite in Essex, recon engine and fitting?

I'm eyeing up various 1Y engines, generally in roadworthy cars (for my layman ability to remotely assess their condition). I guess for this I'm talking £200 - £400 for a fairish condition polo/golf/ibiza.

My questions are:
1. Once engine removed, are there going to be any parts of particular value left on the donor car?
2. Is it a relatively easy conversion for a competent camper/vw specialist?
3. Am I correct in thinking that, apart from a few modifications (such as matching manifold outlets), no additional items need to be purchased?

Its a easy conversion done one myself recently.Removing the CS engine single handed can be tricky .I managed it with the use of a heavy trolly jack removed it out under the van.Others on here may advice lifting it out with the use of a hydraulic hoist .You need the angled sump off the CS engine and the oil pump the inlet&exhaust manifolds are a straight swop on to the 1Y engine.The 1.6 inlet manifold has a diffrent shape to the 1Y ports so a little metal can be removed to match or just leave .My van had a 1.6td fitted i had no suitable inlet or exhaust manifold to use . I used the 1Y exhaust manifold and refabricated the 1.6td down pipe to bolt up obtained a 1.6 CS inlet manifold & airbox it runs well on them.The 1Y engine came out of a 96 caddy with 80.000 miles as a precution the crankshaft rear&front oil seals where replaced and the crank cog + bolt new cambelt and tensioner.I would advice purchasing a new oil pump for the 1.6 CS to fit on the 1Y .Replacing the bottom crankshaft cog and new bolt provided tightened properly should give long term reliability this topic has been discussed about the weakness of its keyway.Use your CS alternater and water pump pulleys off the 1.6 CS and not the 1Y setup .Oh a spiget bearing to fit in the rear crankshaft for the gearbox input shaft.

One for sale here http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum ... ?TID=35999

Out of interest Camper, how does the 1Y run with the 5 speed gearbox out the JX (assuming thats what you have)?

I cant really add any more than what Camper has said. I've done it twice now and i always drop the engine onto a piece of cardboard then jack the van up and drag the engine out...

I got nothing for my donor vehicle but i couldnt be arsed to try and sell bits off it and i needed it out the way.

Oh, i wouldnt necessary try to find a VW garage - i'd just find a competent mechanic or a VW sympathetic garage. Retro fitting engines isnt very popular i found - specially if the engine i not intended for the car in the first place.

Good luck

Ringo

Ringo i fitted a DK code 4 speed gearbox removed from a 2ltr cu Aircooled transporter.This requires early gear rods linkage and extra length added to get all the gears.Running 14" wheels & revs seem just right on motorways cruises comfortable at 60 mph all day.Not fast for some but revs feel low hills and long inclines takes them easy with the extra torque.

Cheers all.

I've sourced a 1.9d from a mid-90s Golf with 88k on the clock. The bloke that sold it to me (Volksmania) suggested to go with Golf or Caddy version - rather than the Polo version - due to mounting differences and a different placed dipstick.

Camper - Thanks for your comments - I'll be running through them with my mechanic prior to his fitting.

Cheers all.

When i did this conversion it was done with a couple of trolly jacks.The back of the van was jacked up as high as possible and put on axle stands.To remove the engine take off the exhaust box and its down pipe + airbox and overfill tank oil filler tube unbolt off the sump .You need to support the gearbox on the bell housing i used a rope tightened around the cross member.I took the weight off the engine on its sump with a board between the sump and a commercial trolly jack unbolted it from the gearbox and gradually worked it away from the gearbox.Its important to get the right hight supported for the gearbox then the engine will come off the input shaft without straining on removal.Iowering the engine on the trolly jack and slidding it on to card board is a way to get it out under the van.I removed the gearbox before i jacked up the 1Y engine to refit in the bay to its bolted mountings .I find its easier this way with the box removed to fit the engine it can be moved forward for alignment to the mountings then refit the gearbox afterwards to the engine its a matter then on jacking the gearbox up and bolting the mounts.

camper wrote:Its a easy conversion done one myself recently.Removing the CS engine single handed can be tricky .I managed it with the use of a heavy trolly jack removed it out under the van.Others on here may advice lifting it out with the use of a hydraulic hoist .You need the angled sump off the CS engine and the oil pump the inlet&exhaust manifolds are a straight swop on to the 1Y engine.The 1.6 inlet manifold has a diffrent shape to the 1Y ports so a little metal can be removed to match or just leave .My van had a 1.6td fitted i had no suitable inlet or exhaust manifold to use . I used the 1Y exhaust manifold and refabricated the 1.6td down pipe to bolt up obtained a 1.6 CS inlet manifold & airbox it runs well on them.The 1Y engine came out of a 96 caddy with 80.000 miles as a precution the crankshaft rear&front oil seals where replaced and the crank cog + bolt new cambelt and tensioner.I would advice purchasing a new oil pump for the 1.6 CS to fit on the 1Y .Replacing the bottom crankshaft cog and new bolt provided tightened properly should give long term reliability this topic has been discussed about the weakness of its keyway.Use your CS alternater and water pump pulleys off the 1.6 CS and not the 1Y setup .Oh a spiget bearing to fit in the rear crankshaft for the gearbox input shaft.

Where is this spiget bearing ???
is it behind the fly weel or do you mean thrus bearing ???

Sipgot bearing.. (input shaft support (idler) bearing

Normally in the end of the crankshaft, usually a caged needle roller brg

peteabbot had a good idea to support and drop the engine by putting a sturdy board across the top of the engine bay hole and using a trolley jack with a ratchet strap around the engine to lift and lower it..could be done alone like that i suppose.
get the spigot bearing from simon and oil filter and what every else you need.

..when you start the removal if you come across anything your unsure of, post it on this thread and you will get a reply from any of us proberbly within the hour

it took me a under a week to do but that was a like an hour a night after work swapping bits over..but i am a bit slow

Thanks for the mention Dave. I actually had 2 bits of timber across the engine bay and 2 trolley jacks sitting on them, handy because when you do it on ya todd you can also tilt the engine. Nice job of the exhaust by the way..perhaps you should weld for a living

nah..there flook all money in it

Hi Guys,
After some excellently advice from this forum I have fitted a 1Y engine in my T25
been running fine for the best part of seven months.
Now its getting a bit chilly I have noticed that there is a sound from the engine that I can only describe as tapping or rattling and goes away when the engine is worm.
The engine has also become slow to return to Idle when you let off the throttle, where as I always enjoyed the sound of just taping the accelerator at the traffic lights to get a nice note.
I have also fitted a silencer designed for the 1Y engine as I found that on long journeys the increased gasses where pushing the old 16D exhaust of the down-pip. this has made a great difference in performance and economy and its a bit quieter.
I know that the rocker cover has sprung an oil leak which i am sorting this weekend and it seems to run fine.
Economical and top speed of 85 cruses at 65 -70 no problems.

Any ides or am I being paranoid. this is my daily driver and work horse so it has been well run in.