Club 80-90 Forums

As my old teacher used to say 'there are more ways to kill a pig than beatin it to death.....'but off a JX 1.6TD engine: exhaust manifold, sump, air box, complete new exhaust ,going from a 1.6na have I missed much? left hand mount? Sorry if being thick want get the bits ready,ta D
Height issues as usual with bed so thoughts please.

Turbo, you have to decide if you're going JX manifold and turbo or AAZ manifold and turbo...

Andyel and Andy Simpson and Thomas (DH) are the ones here that know, Oh yes, Simon Baxter of course.

Maybe Andyel only one to have done the AAZ manifold turbo as is, so conclusion is that the JX turbo, manifold and pipe is a whole lot easier...
ideally doing that, you need to match the AAZ exh. ports to the manifold, with a die-grinder, rotary burr, by blueing them together and scribing the new shape, or cutting a cardboard template. Your choice, some do, some don't.

BIG NB. When canting the engine over, shorten the dipstick tube collar (going up on Wiki soon) so that you don't become the nth person (like me) to put too much oil in. Fill it with 4.5 litres after a filter change, run it up, l;et it drain back down and calibrate dipstick so you know roughly where you need to be. Think its about 1" off the dipstick tube, at least I'm hoping it is. They do not like too much oil half way round a big roundabout... be warned!

Unless you have a Doka or Soka, think the AAZ pump's LDA will protrude, so maybe can amke a small (but strong) box for this under bed or whatever, it's not a lot, an imch or so I think.

Thanks for that. I think the easiest option for me is deffo the way to go! I was hoping to keep the aaz as unmolested as possible but sounds like thats a no goer . Better proceed as Simon would do it as it may end up in his garage!!!!

OK, Andyel I'm sure it is who can tell you exactly the crack with an unmolested AAZ, and understand your sentiments on that. But they do go OK with the JX gear, but one does wonder about the fuelling and boost matchup... it can't be quite as accurate as the straight AAZ.

Make sure you get the 4 bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold on the JX out in good condition, or find 4 good 2nd hand ones. They cost £13 each! Although you can get socket cap-heads Grade 12.9 to match cheaply, which will do the job... mine had the two longer ones like that in it originally but they both broke when removing, required power-bar undo them all. Re-tighten on re-assembly to about 35 lb-ft with copper-slip on threads but not under heads. Those mating faces have to be very flat and clean - I used a sheet of 80 grade emery on sheet of thick plate glass to do the turbo after de-scaling it, and I stuck same stuff to a perfectly flat thick brass plate to do the manifold (in situ) - using spray-tack adhesive - worked just fine - will find out if I've succeeded this weekend.

Do check the turbo you end up with for play in bearings and condition of compressor blades - info in our Wiki on that. Waste of time puttinga a worn turbo on, in fact if gland-seals bad and you overfill sump, can wreck engine (allegedly, mine just about survived). Make sure you have the proper air-filter for these engines too, and it's clean, they do not like sucking against a restriction (turbo gland-seals again).

Maybe talk to Andyel or Andy Simpson before you finally decide - think it will depend on your facilities and fabrication skills for exhaust and engine mounting... it IS worth it though, if you've found a good lump, they are incredibly strong and quite powerful enough.

And make sure you get a full set of the sump setscrews and bolts form the JX donor, don't tighten the ones from the bellhousing until all the sump set-screws are at least nipped up, and a couple at the back (front carwise) near the bellhosuing might require a 1/4" drive socket set with the right bit and long extension, think i bought a nice Halfords 1/4" set in a wee black box for that. Mine had the windage tray and built-in rubber gasket on it, but most discard that and use a normal sump gasket - your guess, your choice

You can use the AAZ turbo with the JX manifold, no mismatch then.
Exhaust is easy as the 1.6TD just bolts on with no messing.

Im one for using as many standard off the shelf parts as possible, not into bodging and welding stuff if I don't need to.

Thing is, if you go on holiday and something breaks it's a damn site easier to get a part off the shelf than dicking about trying to make something fit.

When I do an AAZ conversion the only two parts that can't be bought off the shelf are the turbo oil return line and the turbo oil feed line.

Oh, and a bit of 52mm tube from manifold down to turbo, not exactly hard to get hold of though!

As it happens though I usually have a couple of turbo oil return lines on the shelf, it's just it's my shelf and not a motor factors shelf!

If you need it I have a couple of AAZ kits now, £40 for a cut to length oil return line, block bung to close the hole left by the old oil return line and a spigot shaft bearing.

I don't fit the windage tray as it makes fitting the gearbox to sump bolt fitting a nightmare, not sure if it clears the oil pick up pipe anyway, never tried.

Relocate a JX airbox behind the NSR light in the void.

Wickes water tank lids make a tidy job of the engine lid bump!

AAZ inlet manifold.

Good information there... makes it sound the only diesel conversion worth doing

I don't fit the windage tray as it makes fitting the gearbox to sump bolt fitting a nightmare, not sure if it clears the oil pick up pipe anyway, never tried.

Seems to as mine had one on it, but not any more...

SEE SUPERB ABOVE

Looks like it may be easier buying a complete jx lump realy as all the indiv bits starting to add up Now where can I find one of them..........ta D

SyncrosparesUK or Syncro-Nutz or a lucky find in ascrapyard...