Club 80-90 Forums

I was servicing the van today. The sump plug took a long time to come out; kinda like it was spinning. When I did it back up again, it refused to tighten. Or rather it would semi tighten and then go lose again and then semi tighten again. At the moment I've left it in it's semi-tightened state. I've refilled the oil and run it for a little bit and it hasn't leaked.....yet.

I'm going to leave it overnight and fire it up tomorrow and see what happens.

I think it may be knackered. If it is, what can I do? Apart from lie in the corner of a dark room and cry, which is what I feel like doing at the moment. It's my daily drive and I really need it to work.

It's a 1986 1.9DG.

Help please.

if it did leak it wouldn't be much.

relax it's an easy fix

Helicoil it

kevtherev wrote:if it did leak it wouldn't be much.

relax it's an easy fix

What's the fix?

Probably, buy a new sump nut, but I wouldn't know - I'm just guessing...

Sarah

FlowerPower wrote:

kevtherev wrote:if it did leak it wouldn't be much.

relax it's an easy fix

What's the fix?

there's a bit on the wiki about this.

choice of two fixes.
as marble suggests a Helicoil kit, or drill and re-tap

which thread is buggered the sump or the bolt?
if it's the bolt, then buy a new one and see if it tightens

Hi, thanks for your comments.

The thread on the bolt seems fine, so I assume the sump thread is knackered.

Any idea where I can buy a helicoil kit?

Would the engine need to be removed to do this?

FlowerPower wrote:Any idea where I can buy a helicoil kit?

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/3-8-X-24UN ... r-DHCK-UNF" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

They're probably on ebay and lots of other sites as well.

Tony

FlowerPower wrote:
Would the engine need to be removed to do this?

nope it would be easier on car ramps though.

in the meantime try an 'O' ring on the plug shoulder it should make a better seal

Not sure if it is recommended but as a stop gap I put mine back with PTFE (plumbers) tape.

"O" ring, PTFE tape all ok as a temporary fix..

other thing is never do it up with a 1/2" drive socket set, a 1/4" drive "T" bar or 13mm ring/combination spanner is more than adequate.. it doesnt hold the engine... there should be a copper sealing washer too.

Helicoil.... now you dont want to be ordering that "UNF" kit, I think that was meant as an example... and a large (M14) wont be cheap...

I prefer Time-Sert to Helicoil as they are a threaded insert and not a spring wire, but they are even more expensive.

Thanks guys.

How hot does it get down there? Wouldn't a rubber O ring melt?

What are the relative benefits of the tap and dye v helicoil methods?

Helicoil & Time-Sert both require tapping the hole, then have a spring thread or insert put in them.

There are also oversize drain plugs available that are self-tapping.

Standard plug uses a copper O-ring.

Oil gets to about 110c. Your oil filter has rubber O-rings on it.

also i have seen gas pipe plugs used , the ones with a tapered thread

apply some ptfe and its a permanent job!