Club 80-90 Forums

My 1.9DG WBX'r engine is now 22 years old and, though it runs fine having covered 91k , will probably fail in the near future due to perished water gasket/seals, etc. I have noticed a small drip of coolant at the rear of the sump where the push rod tube cover bolts to it but cannot find the source. Checked the area around the thermostat housing above and it all checks out fine so suspect the water jacket seal weeping.

1. I am thinking of fitting an Aircooled engine but is the conversion straightforward and is it a wise move? My old 1.6ltr a/c Aircooled Bay was a bit slow (that didn't bother me as I only tootle along at 50MPH or so and top speed isn't an issue for me), but driving in the winter did as the cab was freezing.

2. Are parts easily obtainable for the Aircooled.

3. What do owners generally think of the 1.6 and 2ltr a/c engines and cab heating issue?


Planning a trip to Crete this year and thinking that an a/c would give less reliabilty problems if driven modestly. Thanks folks!

AngeloEvs wrote: What do owners generally think of the 1.6 and 2ltr a/c engines and cab heating issue?

They don't have cab heating ... ask Rozzo or Rich

My advice (not impartial I know) would be to save up and get a recon DG or DJ ~£1000 OR a known ... i.e. driven by you to test it ... s/h DG/DJ this will be ~£500.

Ian.

Thanks Ian, all advice welcomed and you know more about these engines than I do. A good second hand DG could be sensible as it would allow me to keep the current lump and remove the heads and check their general condition with the option of renewing gaskets and seals and thus having a spare. Alternatively, book it into Elite or Steve at Gasure and just get a recon and have everything that they think would be sensible replaced. I suspect that would include exhaust, clutch, water cooling pipes, hoses, pump, etc. The shell is excellent so might be worth the investment. The idea of Aircooled was to save on cost and never have to worry about coolant issues/failures.

Just from personal experience here. A standard bug engine will fit a T25 (with all the tuning/big bore possibilities) but engine lid is too low unless you have a crewcab. Known a few extend hatch to get one in and of course parts are cheap as chips. Heating can be excellent on an Aircooled providing its in good nick. Bug heat exchangers are relatively cheap but 2ltr van engines are not.

TBH at only 91K if there's no oil pressure or other issues just a waterjacket seal I'd have it compression checked to look for other gremlins but reseal both sides and you're off and running with a known engine, which means a lot.

Ian.

If you go Aircooled then it's case of everything needs to be present, complete and fitted otherwise you wont get any heat up front. you would also need to change the heater matrix in the dash for the Aircooled version.

Thanks Dugcati, sounds like I would need a donor van which isn't really cost effective. Also been told that you need to change the clutch housing. Thanks for the input chaps!

I managed to get my heating connected, it does mean your screen clears in the cold, but you still need to wear a hat and thick socks in cold weather

As Ian said, if you know of a good mechanic might be worth asking how much it would be for them to have a good look over the engine and if needed replace seals etc? So long as theres nothing serious wrong you could save a few quid

Fingle wrote:I managed to get my heating connected, it does mean your screen clears in the cold, but you still need to wear a hat and thick socks in cold weather

then summats still wrong. my one was awesome.

are the pods open fully??

Make sure your "good mechanic" KNOWS about waterboxers before opening it up... they are not like "normal" engines and a lot of people have caught colds when getting a local garage to work on them... there are quite a few things that can go wrong.....

Aircooled............. what a backwards step... and using a 1.6 type 1 engine......... would be a bit mad....

Its just possible I could sort you out in the spring if the leaks are not bad at the mo........ Oh and dont be tempted to start adding "rad weld"......... bad mistake....

Air cooled engines in aircraft work well as they spend most of their time at the throttle settings and load for which they are designed. An air cooled engine in a road vehicle will due to its variable duty cycle, be either under rated or stressed and rarely at optimum operating temperature. I would suggest in the van the reliability is acheived by under rating it. Water cooling allows control of most of the engine to a tad over 100 degrees Centigrade where the engine and lubrication is most efficient. All this means litle to the air cooled fan - atics (dodgy pun) but barring water leaks theory says water cooling is best. I know my WBX goes like the wind and the heater works too.
Cheers Wolfie
Or is there a thermostatic shutter system in air cooled jobbies which does the business and I am talking rot?

Dont gt me wrong, I love aircooleds... but going from water to aircoold is a lot of hassle and I cant see any advantage...

Once again, many thanks to all and I will go on the advice given and, once the cause of the dripping coolant is isolated, will either have the current engine repaired or replaced along with everything else deemed sensible whilst the engine is out. I won't use radweld or anything similar.