Club 80-90 Forums

Does anyone know what or where the distributor numbers for the T25 Aircooled's are (on the web/in a book etc NOT the dizzy itself!) and can also help me determine which one's are the ones to use and avoid. Looking on vagcat.com I can't make much sense of what they are listing...
http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/T2/1981/4/57/65903/

Specifically I am looking for a dizzy for the CT engine with electronic ignition not points

Any help greatly appreciated!

Doug

Just fix yours.
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php?p ... t&Itemid=6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

my reading of that is 070 905 305, CT and CZ from may 79 to end dec 1982
CT engine upto 057 363 described as "WAN" uses 043 905 205 LY
and CT engine 057 364 onwards with M904 (without transistor ignition and dis system also described as "WAN") had disi 070 905 305 A
from ETOS but info probably the same

Hi Simon - thanks for the link - I lready have several dizzy's but they are all different - one has points, another is electronic with a dual vac takeoff and the one in my bus is also electronic but with a single vac takeoff ; all of them have differnt part numbers on the casing's too - confused as to which combination is right.

Cheers for your interpretation Aidan - I check that against the misc dizzy's and bit's I have!

CT should have electronic ignition (in this country, the WAN bit is for some African country or another)
Fairly sure it's the single vac advance but I really don't see CT engines through the workshop as everyone has done the right thing and weighed them in.

Just replaced mine. As far as i know both the CT and the CU have electreonic dizzy with the CU being the double vacume

Cheers

Simon Baxter wrote:Just fix yours.
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php?p ... t&Itemid=6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You buy a secondhand one for less. Mega Bug

CT (1.6) and CU (2.0) dont use the same dizzy..

the CU needs a different advance curve and so any CT/WBX/beetle dizzy should not be used on them...

The CT should have an electronic unit and I have seen 2 with double vac units... although I swapped one out for a single vac unit .. just make sure the second vac line is blocked off...

At a good guess, you should be able to use a wbx (1.9 DG) dizzy.. as the wbx has a very similar curve requirement to the CT... a 1.9 DF dizzy may even work better as these dont rev as high as the DG so a close comparison to the CT..

Bypass the idle stabiliser too as these tend to fail giving bad running.. (disconnect the 2 plugs and plug them together...)

If you have to go down the "009" route... that requires another set of thinking as they dont have vac advance and no where near enough total mechanical advance...

albertramsbottom wrote:

Simon Baxter wrote:Just fix yours.
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php?p ... t&Itemid=6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You buy a secondhand one for less. Mega Bug

You could, it could go bang in a week.

Repair kit, fit and forget.

toomanytoys wrote:CT (1.6) and CU (2.0) dont use the same dizzy..

the CU needs a different advance curve and so any CT/WBX/beetle dizzy should not be used on them...

The CT should have an electronic unit and I have seen 2 with double vac units... although I swapped one out for a single vac unit .. just make sure the second vac line is blocked off...

At a good guess, you should be able to use a wbx (1.9 DG) dizzy.. as the wbx has a very similar curve requirement to the CT... a 1.9 DF dizzy may even work better as these dont rev as high as the DG so a close comparison to the CT..

Bypass the idle stabiliser too as these tend to fail giving bad running.. (disconnect the 2 plugs and plug them together...)

If you have to go down the "009" route... that requires another set of thinking as they dont have vac advance and no where near enough total mechanical advance...

That's useful info - luckily my van has had the idle stabiliser already removed...I should have mentioned that my CT is a 1776 with twin single Weber carbs (sorry - dunno why I didn't mention it! ) How much difference would that set up make to the dizzy? (Laurie if you read this your infinite wisdom on the CT1776 conversion would be great!) I'll keep an eye out for 1.9DG or a 1.9DF dizzy once the season starts if I need one.

I took the van to work today and after stopping to reset the timing back to standard (I was running it a bit too advanced) it seems OK but I have no basis for comparison given that mine is a modd'ed engine and how sh1te/underpowered these engines were before!

**E D I T**

Oh..the other pain in the 4rse is that I have a 2.0l fan housing on my engine so I can't use a dual vac dizzy as there is not enough rotational room - dizzy hits the heater flaps in the housing! (I do have the original tin fan housing still in the garage and may well go back to it when the lump comes out for an oil pump leak problem!)

One thing I have learned in my short VW life, Replace with new if possible it will cost you far less in the long run.

I replaced the power steeing pipes on my Polo three times because I was to tight to fork out for genuine parts. Had similiar with seat belts, brake servo to name a few.

Now if poss I do it once and do it right.

K

Have the carbs got a vac takeoff point??? if not then you might have to go with an 009... if you have... then it needs some experimentation too..

"stock timing".. what figures have you used? with the single vac dizzy? vac disconected?

yea my carbs both have vac take-off's but I am experimenting with linking them together and then onto the dizzy - I have just put a new vac unit on the dizzy I am currently using (bought from GSF the other week for about £18.00) but suspect the vac signal is not quite right..... I did have the vac signal coming from a take off point on the brake servo line but am unsure if this was the way to go as the vac signal was mahoosive (due to it being taken from a manifold point not a carb point) in comparison to the carb signal!



My engine is currently timed up to bang on 4 degree ATDC with the vac pipes connected - the book stated 4-6 degrees with pipes connected. My engine runs at that but seems to pink a tiny bit when in low revs in 4th gear which I suspect could be the vac signal being too strong... or the wrong dizzy and weak springs on the bob weights!