Club 80-90 Forums

hi
which type is best please and where can i get hold of a good quality one? i have the type that you knock in but of course they knack the rubber so no good if you want to re-use the balljoint, which i do i've seen some advertised at halfrauds but they don't look over strong and i don't want to waste money on one that will break. since these busses have kinda semi commercial sized balljoints i'd appreciate some advice please.
cheers
rozz

Proper Mech's use an FBH to release such items ,,, as these tend to do little damage to anything of rubber nature.

Splitters are for folks who have no eye to hand co-ordination,,,,,,



Regards,


Fritz,,,,,,,,,,,,,

I got one of the screw apart type ones. Draper I think. Did loads on my Landy and hasn't shown any sign of breaking or even a slight scratch. It's fairly big but should work on a bus.

Ringo

I agree with fritz on this one.
Mechanics rarely use ball joint splitters, they prefer to use a long bar for levering down the ball joint...and a big hammer 2-2.5lb to hit 'very hard' on the carrier (not directly on the ball joint) to basically shock the taper joint apart.
It takes two people, one applying lots of leverage and the other hitting hard and accurately on the carrier or suspension component next to the taper ball joint (don't try to knock it down) hit actually on the side of the taper joint.
Martin

Red Westie wrote:I agree with fritz on this one.
Mechanics rarely use ball joint splitters, they prefer to use a long bar for levering down the ball joint...and a big hammer 2-2.5lb to hit 'very hard' on the carrier (not directly on the ball joint) to basically shock the taper joint apart.
It takes two people, one applying lots of leverage and the other hitting hard and accurately on the carrier or suspension component next to the taper ball joint (don't try to knock it down) hit actually on the side of the taper joint.
Martin

Yes this is a form of "White Mans Magic" performed by wise and whiley mechanics of old. The knack is to apply a powerfull seperating force either by levering a long tommy bar between the two components or applying a jack to the upper member (Don't lift the whole vehicle!) or in some way achieving that end. This in itself will not part the joint however: A sharp blow to the end of the outer part or a blow across the outer part resisted by a club hammer on the oposite side to the blow will resut in a microscopic oval distortion to the piece which will break the taper fit. The taper fit is cleverly designed to retain perfect mechanical fit/retention while needing minimal axial retention but once this retention is removed - the nut that is - a slight distortion and shock imparted in this way will always part the joint under these circumstances.
Cheers
Wolfie

What are you infering Citizen Smith my name is Desmond Everton and I originate from Jamaca.

Red Westie wrote:I agree with fritz on this one.
Mechanics rarely use ball joint splitters, they prefer to use a long bar for levering down the ball joint...and a big hammer 2-2.5lb to hit 'very hard' on the carrier (not directly on the ball joint) to basically shock the taper joint apart.
It takes two people, one applying lots of leverage and the other hitting hard and accurately on the carrier or suspension component next to the taper ball joint (don't try to knock it down) hit actually on the side of the taper joint.
Martin

Yes this is the correct method. A full steering lock helps with leverage on track rod ends.

One good wack is worth 100 small ones !

Red Westie wrote:What are you infering Citizen Smith my name is Desmond Everton and I originate from Jamaca.

I am not infering anything Desmond. Some of our most valued and pleasantly integrated imigrants originated in Jamaica (note correct spelling) And the term White mans magic comes from a time long ago before the nasty and vindictive PC police managed to transform the inocent goliwog doll into a tool for racist scorn and hatred. No offence was meant and I would be surprised if any was taken.
Happy new year to you anyway
Wolfie

U would think that me comin from Jamaca I would be able to spell it.
Happy New Year to all you nice peoples out there.
Martin and Michelle

(don't try to knock it down) hit actually on the side of the taper joint.
Martin

Perzactly, it always works, the important thing being to make sure the nut is unwound almost completely off before splitting the joint, 'cos you might have trouble winding it another thread or two once joint is split...

Happy New Year to all

Unfortunately we don't all have a spare mechanic in our toolbox!

As above, use an FBH and hit it like your getting an un-diserable off your missus and it'll pop out a treat.

PS don't miss othwise it'll bugger the threads.

I have never owned a ball joint splitter.
I have however owned a succesion of large hammers though.
I've had "larry" for a while now, 4lb with a 18" shaft!
Check out that bad boy.
0% failure rate.

I've had "larry" for a while now, 4lb with a 18" shaft!
Check out that bad boy.

Fortunately uprights are made of malleable steel