Club 80-90 Forums

Hi,

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I have a 2.0 CU and apparently its carbs are shot. Its running like I do (slowly and badly) and backfiring all over the place. Is it worth buying a rebuild kit, and if so, where from, or just binning them and getting replacements? Garage man recommends the JK single carb conversion and having looked at the prices, so would my bank manager. What would be the most effective replacements and the best value in terms of price and fuel efficiency and performance benefits?

If its relevant, I've had the fuel filler neck problem which has let water into the fuel tank. I've drained some of it after letting it stand for a few days to hopefully catch most of the H20.

Thanks

This section is empty in the wiki

But look a round in there, there is other stuff up there on air-cooled carbuaration problems and the way they connected up...pipewise and the connections to ignition distributor etc.

Speak to Steve at Gasure, he rebiulds the stock solexes (not just a gasket set) and repairs the common fault of the spindle wear, this would be cheaper than the JK carb that quite frankly doesnt work all that well without a good bit of forethought and understanding...

aye whatever you do dont fit that single central weber load of c.rap.

it will strangle the limited performance you already have!!

much better to refurb the solexs with steve at gasure or dig deep and fit a pair of dual choke dellortos.

backfiring all over the place

Sure its a carb issue

Sounds like timing when backfiring. Valves still open when sparking etc..

aye , air leaking in ( thru worn spindles or bad gaskets) will cause a backfire too.

If the carb set up on your van is the dual carb one that we had on our 1979 Bay there are a few interconnecting pipes with rubber joints. If you're getting backfiring it is very possible that one of these joints is leaking in air and weakening the mixture.
If the garage man is not familiar with this unique dual setup he probably recommended the single carb as he couldn't understand how the original set up works.

You need to read the Haynes manual to get some idea how they work as the idling is only adjusted through the one carb, the left I think?

Trundletruc

But as already said, if the pipes etc are in place, no amount of adjustment will cure the worn spindles.. this IS the most common problem on the twin carb setup.. finding someone that can actually set them up and make sure the system is all in place is a second problem though... Steve at Gasure can do it....

I would have to agree with what everyone else says on this one.

I used to make the mistake of buying a brand new Brosol H30/31 carburetor from Generally Shoddy Frowaway (pronounced throw-away !!) Car Parts for my 1300 Beetle's 1600 twin port engine. What a waste of money !!! It had only lasted about 3,000 miles and the internal corrosion took over and blocked everything up (eg. dangerous flat spots).

I ended up getting Gower and Lee (based in Bushey Heath near Watford) to rebuild two of my carburetors (I ended up using a rebuilt Solex 34 Pict-3 in the end) and I have had no problems since.

As everyone else says, using Gas Sure to sort out your twin Solex carburetors would be the best thing to do. From what I have heard they actually set them up on a rolling road.

This will save you a lot of money and aggro in the long run.

i dont think steve uses a rolling road fella.

I stand corrected I obviously remembered it wrong.

I had steve at gasure rebuild my carbs on the 2lt air cooled CU and they are great now . I dont think the single is the way to go. The twin setup once it was done has been great the van goes up hill and fuel consumption when on petrol is now acceptable. I would suggest you give him a ring and get it booked in. You will only have to do it once and you will get the money back in fuel very quickly .

Good luck and seasons greetings and all that stuff

Perro