Club 80-90 Forums

Hi Guys

thinking of buying a syncro 16" crew cab, but the bodywork needs a bit of attention, and has no MOT,some panels are rusty and need replacing does anyone know where i can buy the panels for a crewcab and how much i am looking at pricewise for the rear panels, also would anyone know a good bodyshop that could replace them for me anyone give me a ballpark figure on price.

is there anyway of telling it is a genuine syncro 16"

how much would i expect to pay for one in this condition

thanks, any help would be welcome

best regards

spaceboy

I will give you £200 for those "pooh" plastic arches

jed

is that for each one?

One of only 300 made if it is a 16" which it is more than likley will be.
Some info here.
http://www.busman.be/pagina24.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

thanks for your info syncro simon, much appreciated, thanks for your kind reply,
do you know what i should look for when buying a syncro16, whats the major things to look for? any comments would be good.

cheers fella.
regards
spaceboy

I dont want to put you off, but my moto would be to expect to have to repair everything, and if you dont then it's a bonus. Without having a look at it I could not say, where is it? If there is a syncronaut nearby they may be able to have a look.
I would start on assesing the engine and gearbox's, check the diff locks and the VC, rust can be fixed by more people than can fix the transmission.

I love my 16" so she will get what ever she needs, thats the kind of attitude you need.

KarlT has just done a resto similar to yours, look him up on search for his post, there are a lot of photos of his 14" crewcab.

Having done some body resto on my pickup, looking at the pictures I'd say the body is a far bigger issue than engine and trans. Engine swaps are fairly trivial, and we have a good gearbox rebuilder on this forum. Though a fair number of the panels are still available from VW, some are also deleted and very hard to find/expensive. Looks to me like most of each side will need to be removed and rebuilt, and there's a chance of structural damage as well. I'd only consider buying this as a project, after a closer look at the body. Oh yeah, considering the parts value, you'd not want to by paying too much more than 2K, and factor in another 2K to put it right. You quite likely will need to overhaul the brakes, and the rear parts are all special, hard-to-find and expensive.

that car is a original 16" but it was a LHD CAR untill recently,ive got everthing you will need for a 16" here all the brake parts and suspension parts but they are more expensive than 14" parts,cheers cj.

Thanks for your feedback SyncroAndy and Cj

the rear arch trims are they made from rubber or plastic?
if the whell arch panels are corroded underneath can these be replaced with a normal T3 wheel arch, ie from vw, schofields justkampers etc?
Cj on inspection of this truck how much would you value it in its current state?
not in bits please, haha!
have you seen the rhd conversion if so what do you think?

thanks guys
regards
Paul.

Is this the one up Vanfest for £4000? Converted by the seller? If so I was warned that it would need an engineers report before being road legal. Be aware.
As for body-work v's mechanical parts.....As you're getting it done by the trade, I'd say there isn't much in it. Body work parts are cheaper but labour is intensive. I spent 60+hrs labour, plus all the parts, getting my Doka (mostly) rust free (3 wheel arches, steps, floors etc)& adding bling (Roll-cage) & an interior. If I was paying a garage labour....I'd still be paying the Credit card!!

This is the van that was up for 4 grand.
It has been converted from LHD to RHD and had a 4th door fitted.
The body work on this van will need at least 80 to 90 hours + inexess of £1000 on panels the all your paint and matterials.(this is to do it proply)
If you are just after a rough and ready van then just hammerite it.
As to insurance if you find a company that will insure it make very shure that the steering mod is in ure paperwork.Remember an MOT dosent mean a vehicle is road worthy either.
I am busy rebuilding my 16 doka at present with no panel replacement and minimal welding due to fitting a forth door and some small rust spots and payed a meer £500 more than the £4000 asking price.

Hope this helps.
Russel

spaceboy1 wrote:the rear arch trims are they made from rubber or plastic?
if the whell arch panels are corroded underneath can these be replaced with a normal T3 wheel arch, ie from vw, schofields justkampers etc?
Paul.

The rear wheel arches are slightly modified standard ones.


The spats are a sort of soft plastic, with a slightly aerated inside. They are obsolete now from VW and expensive and rare second hand, but those ones look fine.


There are several syncro's on the for sale board, lots of different prices. Buying one that you can drive around in and fully check out would be a big bonus. The more standard the better in my opinion.

There was a topic or a post I believe on this truck when someone was looking at it at vanfest.

The 16" panel van in finland looks a good price, and an adventure to go and get it aswell.!!

Heres mine coming back from Belgium.



When you add up the mods that slobbo has on his syncro it is worth the money.

If you are new to syncro's I would wait for one to come along that is enthusiast owned, and sorted, and you can drive it about and see if you like it.

KarlIT wrote:I spent 60+hrs labour,

Sounds very conservative estimate did that include all the tea-making...

Bodywork that has been repaired will never be as good as factory original. That is using every rust inhibitor and protector known to man (or syncro andy-I think he may be a rep for dinitrol). It is not feasable to assemble panels in the same way as they were originally. A rebuilt transmission can be as good as new and factory new engines are still available from vw(I think).
Beware - lots of vans with better bodies have been cut up for spares.
Pete.

You mean to many vans with better bodys.