Club 80-90 Forums

WOW, ha, thanks very much, i'll take a look next time at the code.
I'm keen to keep the wbx, as swopping to diesel is hastle and I wont do many miles in it so not too fussed, plus I like the noise:).Can a little bit more power be had from the 1.9's with a little effort and carb changes etc?

I guess its worth starting with a DG if rebuilding?

Is the extra capacity of the 2.1's from throw, stroke etc over the 1.9'sthen?

DG is worthwhile upgrade from DF
yes different crank and pistons in 2.1
Don't know of anyone who tunes 1.9s, in good fettle and correctly set up they are fine, late exhaust better than early one I believe in terms of breathing

A pair of type 3 manifolds and 36 IDF/40 IDF/34 ICT/40DCNF fitted to your old DF would make it go much better. You would retain the heads that never crack too.
Fit a stock beetle cam and type 4 lifters, do a tiny bit of matching of ports and you won't be looking for a 2.1.

The MV, low compression engine is the safest 2.1 to run on carbs.

The DF heads are probably perfect for running turbo or supercharger.

Loads of people are tuning WBX engines, but unfortunately the British tuners don't do anything unless Gene Berg or Claude say its o.k.

2.1 MV engine with engle 110 and weber Alpha injection will give you an instant 140 BHP and 175 ft lbs torque... Or it did when I did it 15 years ago.

An instant improvement for your DF might be to get rid of that 34 pict carb.

Exhaust is worth piddling around with. Look at an old type 3 header and j tubes if dosh is tight.

Does anyone know if the crankshaft pulley wheel from a df would fit an early dg engine? I'm hoping from reading Aidan's first post above, that it does?

Tony

I'm a 1.9 DG fan, simpler to work on and fix espesh the carb which still has some parts available for now from Vw. When I sold my old Elly with the straight thru exhaust, nicely tuned engine n rebuilt carb she wasn't far behind a 2.1 and I'm sure a tad less juicy. Heard they were quite a strong unit too but never had any proof.
Oh and I tried a twin choke Weber for a while, it flew then but got juicier and always gad idling issues but it twere an old unit!! I have found that checking / changing the vaccum advance on the dizzy always helps too, just tuning em up nice n proper can make a HUGE difference!!!

The pulleys are interchangeable on the early ones, but watch the timing marks Some are marked 5 BTDC and some 5ATDC. Single vac dissy has btdc, dual vac have atdc.
If you have a leak from the seal to pulley, Aiden tells me you can now but the genuine late VW seal. Failing that, measure the pulley spigot and buy a 'Speedi Sleeve' from your local Eric seals. You just drive it on with the cup provided and Dremel the drive lip off. About £15.

Laurie wrote:The pulleys are interchangeable on the early ones, but watch the timing marks Some are marked 5 BTDC and some 5ATDC. Single vac dissy has btdc, dual vac have atdc.

Thanks for the info Laurie.

Tony

Laurie

but watch the timing marks Some are marked 5 BTDC and some 5ATDC

Aye - I found this out a couple of months ago as my pulley wheel had the other marking confusing everyone and making me think I had bought a DF rather than a DG (Me = Muppet )