Club 80-90 Forums

Re-fitting my engine this weekend - was going well, now halted due to heavy rain

Just wondering if whilst fitting the new exhaust pipe to head bolts, would it be a good idea to use copperslip ?

I seem to remember reading that it's not good practice to use it when it's in a very hot area, but I might have imagined reading that too

i use PBC, which can handle the temps, but im not sure you can buy it - mine came from Shell Uk - via a oil rig!

i've just ordered brass nuts for mine,, the idea being that after years of rust the nuts fail on removal rather than snapping the studs
copperslip will deffo help tho and i use it on everything

Stainless steel bolts were the best option I remeber reading once somewhere but I have no idea where to get em!!

I seem to remember reading that it's not good practice to use it when it's in a very hot area, but I might have imagined reading that too

CS Fine...

Brass nuts don't t corrode badly and can to some extent re-cut their threads coming back off of rusty studs.. thnk that's th reasoning, and they don't come loose too easily, but should be longer than normal steel nuts.

I use copperslip on mine... The only problem I have is the studs keep coming undone every so often! I must be the luckiest person on this site espicially as I sometimes read posts about broken studs and rounded nuts and bolts that won't budge!

stainless have very low tensile and sheerign quality as far as i rememeber?

id go copper nuts

i got copper nuts. but then I'm a red head. CS works for me, i treat every nut or bolt i crack without shearing to a little CS.

If you are thinking of replacing the exhaust in the next few years then Yes I would also use the 'Copper grease' on all exhaust nuts.


Regards


Fritz,,,,,,,

stainless have very low tensile and sheerign quality as far as i rememeber?

Stainless nuts go with stainless studs usually and come in a wide variety of alloys for various uses from clinical, food qualty, to almost high tensile... which really are then called Cr-Mo (the strongest steels) or Ni-Cr-Mo or Vanadium steels up to Nimonic type steels as used in turbo parts.

There's so many, so asking the 'wrong' supplier just for 'stainless'.. well.

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Diesel manifold studs can come out, tighten them in a bit harder! CS on nut threads but not on thrust faces usually..

I think it was T3 tuning that offered them as a compatible stud/nut set but that was ages ago!

Stick with the original copper locknuts. standard brass nuts will likely come loose.
As for studs coming out, well.....not if they are put in correctly they don't ie: use two standard nuts locked together on the thread, srew in until the nuts can't hold anymore, unlock the nuts.
As for lube...definately grease the threads for ease of assembly but to be honest....in all my years of spannering, I've never seen any evidence of lube remaining (whatever is used) on exhaust manifold studs (simply gets too hot)
Martin

Red Westie wrote:Stick with the original copper locknuts. standard brass nuts will likely come loose.

Actually I'm not using studs and nuts, but some good quality bolts sold as "anti seize manifold bolts" by a local shop.

Red Westie wrote: I've never seen any evidence of lube remaining (whatever is used) on exhaust manifold studs (simply gets too hot)
Martin

Yup, I concur on that, but reckon the body of opinion is correct and so I will put some C.S. on

Thanks folks

Mocki wrote:im not sure you can buy it - mine came from Shell Uk - via a oil rig!

Did someone "borrow" it for you?

i couldnt possibly comment.......