Club 80-90 Forums

Following the advise on a thread on these here forums, I'm trying to replace the glow-plugs.

I knew from the posts on that thread this wasn't going to be an easy task and could take the best part of 3 or more hours. However, it was stated that this task could be done without removing the Diesel pump (thereby avoiding having to set the pump up again). So I've started the task this evening.

The problem is, I can't get the glow-plug which sits directly under the Diesel pump out. No matter which way I twist or turn it, the plug fouls against the Diesel pump body and there's still 1/4" left in the glow-plug hole.

If there is anyone here that has successfully replaced their glow-plugs without removing the pump, would you share with me the secret to getting this one out? Please..!!!

Thanks.

i did, on a KY engine years and years ago, but i cant remember how..... i vowed never to have another derv donkey, and i never will.....

no help i know, but it was done....... all i remember is, it was a terrible job, that need fingers much smaller than mine, and open ended ratchet spanners!!

OK it's out......... with an idea provided by a poster on the Brickyward forum (of the direction of which it should be removed - upwards) and with the help of the busbar itself.

Certainly not as easy as it should be, but ho-hum.

Now to get the new devil back in!!!

Replaced my glow plugs the other week. I feel your frustration...

I did hear a good tip about this concerning replacing the bus bar with a different system to make refitting easier.

Don't want to post bad info on this thread. If I find the tip I'll post a link.

Got it. Credit goes to Titus for this:

A tip for future replacement:
rather than use the copper strip fit glow plugs 4, 3, 2 with their own leads
(use high temp silicone cover high flex cable and crimps) and connect those three to number one (nearest the seats).
That way you can check each plug individually and removal is easier.

Original link: https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... =glowplugs

Refitting would also be easier, as the most fiddly thing I found was fitting the bus bar on again.

Hope this helps.

remove injector pipes,remove injectors,jobs easy then,takes 1 hr,cj.

SYNCROSPARES UK wrote:remove injector pipes,remove injectors,jobs easy then,takes 1 hr,cj.

Well Yes, you are right, but I looked at removing those little devils (The Injectors. The pipes are already removed). Although I have a very good selection of sockets and the like, I don't have one a long enough socket to reach down over them to unscrew them. I could of course use a spanner, but then I wouldn't be able to retorque them.

That's going to be the same story with that glow-plug which sits under the pump. Because I have to use a spanner to tighten it, I'll have to guess the 30Nm (22 ft lb) torque.

usually find the 2 furtherest away from you are easy, the next one a bit trickier, usually use a ratchet spanner and it comes off easy enough - the one closest and under the pump requires an open ring spanner and a bit of patience. All this is done without removing any injector pipes - can't see the need to unsettle the fuel system and risk breakage of other parts.

oh and welcome to the forums

Louey wrote:usually find the 2 furtherest away from you are easy, the next one a bit trickier, usually use a ratchet spanner and it comes off easy enough - the one closest and under the pump requires an open ring spanner and a bit of patience. All this is done without removing any injector pipes - can't see the need to unsettle the fuel system and risk breakage of other parts.

oh and welcome to the forums

Well, I really can't see how you can do this work with the injector pipes inplace. I simply don't believe it!!! No way is there room even for best of spanners or the thinnest of fingers. Maybe yours is a different pump? Or engine?

Anyhow, all glow-plugs are now in. The problem with the glow-plug under the pump is the fact it fouls against the pump body itself and against the cold start cable. Very awkward.

As suggested elsewhere, I put the busbar in with that glow-plug loosely fasten to it, so no need for the grease or magnet trick on that one. The back glow-plug I did use the magnet trick (I have fat thumbs) and after a cope of attempts, thats fastened too. The front two are easy pleasy.

Now having 5 minutes rest, cos being on ones knees for so long (particularly at my age) is no fun. My only consolation is I've put the heating on and it's toasty warm inside the Gipsy.

I don't have one a long enough socket to reach down over them to unscrew them. I could of course use a spanner, but then I wouldn't be able to retorque them.

Injectors need special sockets to clear the return nozzles, 55 ft-lb

That's going to be the same story with that glow-plug which sits under the pump. Because I have to use a spanner to tighten it, I'll have to guess the 30Nm (22 ft lb) torque.

about 40 lbf then on a 6" spanner.

there is a special ratchet spanner that can help.

the busbar is not the problem I think, it's useful when replacing those behind the injection pump.

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki?ti ... _replacing

Yes it's a right %^$&*^*( job, though Simon Baxter alwasy says it's a doddle

Oh dear, we have a non-starter..... Help!!

Everything back together again (properly) and it won't start. Engine turns, but it won't fire.

Checked voltage on the busbar and it's reading 11.5v (approx), The relay can be heard clicking in the black box at the back of the engine bay.

I loosened one pipe going into an injector and got the missus to crank the engine, but no deisel coming out. I would have thought I should see anything coming of of that?

Any other suggestions are to the possible cause?

How frustrating!!

Loosen all 4 and see...

Then if no joy, try removing the return hose from the pump, putting a hose on here and sucking some fuel through..

Pump should be self-priming... in theory.

I hesitate to suggest the following:

Take the glow-plugs out and spin the engine over faster

is the wire still on the fuel cut off solenoid....

HarryMann wrote:Loosen all 4 and see...

Then if no joy, try removing the return hose from the pump, putting a hose on here and sucking some fuel through..

Pump should be self-priming... in theory.

I hesitate to suggest the following:

Take the glow-plugs out and spin the engine over faster

Harry, you're the Mann! (now I know why you;ve choosen that forum name).

Took the return pipe off (despite there was fuel in the pipe) and sucked like billyo. Took quite some serious suck to pull the fuel through, but it did eventually. Put the pipe back on.

Cranked the engine and it started on the 3 or 4th crank.

Thanks mate!



Rob, Yes, I checked the wire was on the fuel-cut off solenoid before I attempted to start it the first around. Cheers.

Great - it worked once for me too (a Simon Baxter suggestion), but I had biodiesel in at the time... tasted good

Glad you you gave my tongue-in-cheek suggestion a miss...

I hesitate to suggest the following:

Take the glow-plugs (again) out and spin the engine over faster