Club 80-90 Forums

My DJ has been noisey on what sounds like one or two tappets on just one cylinder for the few months I've owned the van. I just did 300 miles over the weekend and the noise never goes away.

I'm well aware of the tappet issues on VW's. My MK2 16V Golf took 2 oil changes and running with Wyns hydraulic lifter treatment for a few thou miles before they cleaned out from previous owners lack of oil maintenance.

However on my camper the sound is not the same. This clatter never clears even when the oils hot. I've tried an oil and filter change (20/50 millers semi synth + T25 filter). I just got through the MOT OK on emissions etc. so I don't suspect serious probs.

I'm not sure of the engines history, All I know is it had a new VAG short engine in 2006. When I questioned the previous owner about the noise he said it's probably the tappets need adjusting mate. The engine makes good power but seems to rock a fair bit on idle which makes me think somethngs not right.

I've searched the forum, read wiki etc so fairly clued up but any help will be great.

Things I have questions about.

1. If someone has compensated for a lazy lifter by setting the preload up how can I tell? Or is this not possible?

2. Is it best to go back to zero lash on all and see where I go from there? or just the noisey one?

3. With the lifters pumped up can I test them to see if they hold pressure. Push them down with a large screwdriver for example?

4. If I'm confident the lifters are OK on the noisey cylinder,before I set the preload could I spot any causes of the problem with tell tale marks on the cam, lifters etc? Or would the poor adjustment lead to some marks?

I'm thinking I need to try something as the noise don't sound good if you get the idea, It's not somthing you would want to leave be.

And from what I gather. A half turn of preload on a warmed up run in liifter is required.

Cheers
Ade

I fitted a gen VW recon, it did a smiliar thing, one of the tappets had collapsed.
the van then spent month is VW van Centre car park as they couldn't get the bits to fix it.
VW engines aren't as great as everyone makes out.

Take each cylinder up to firing TDC and see if you can pull the tappet back against the lifter. If one or more is springy. Back off to 'un sprung clearance' take it to touch and then put 1 and 1/2 turns on. Unsprung clearance is when there is no resistance whatsoever.
Good news is that if the lifter/s need replacing, Paul at Speedshop is selling Manton push rod tubes that just happen to have one end bigger than the other, making them perfect for fitting to the wbx and the ct.

Rockers off, push rod out, bend old tube out, remove lifter, replace lifter, fit manton tube, big side down. About £80 for a set so you can sell the remainder on here for £20 each.

My Dehler has a VW genuine unit in it with 30,000 kilometres and rattles for about 10 minutes if I leave it for more than a day or two.

Thanks Laurie I think I understand what your saying here. It will all become clear when I'm looking at them I suspect.

Your 1 1/2 turns in then - is that with the lifters as they are (old ones possibly full of oil?)

Mines definitely either a duff tappet or been fiddled with by a mechanic!

I'll check out speed shop also, that sounds like a good fix.

Cheers
Ade

Righty then... I've managed to get an hour to look at these tappets. I followed what was said.

On my noisy side of the engine where the tappets sound bad. I had one cylinder where after 1/2 turn from no resistance you could feel the pressure on the pre-load screw building up. On my cylinder that sounds the worse after 1 1/2 turns on both inlet and exhuast you could tell the tappets were really squishy. I could set the preload by hand on this cylinder.

So my verdict is I've got a pair of lazy tappets on one cylinder.

After setting them though the engine is not as noisy as before, so something is better.

My new VAG DJ has hydraulic tappet noise from time to time. I have found that she will only rattle if I start and stop the engine without driving on the road eg just shunting around on the drive, and on the next start up after shunting. She will not do it if driven. So now I dont fire her up unless gonna drive her somewhere, and I have not heard the rattle since. Btw she has rattled on about 6 occasions in two years. I think it is another foible of the flat four. Tuned flat fours always use solid lifters, and as tappet adjustment isnt that hard would be the way to go for me, plus it is a good indicator of valve and seat wear, by monitoring if the gap is closing, and at what rate. Useful info from laurie.

This is a very interesting topic to me all of a sudden????