Club 80-90 Forums

Is 15/40 ok all year round in my 1.9 watercooled?Is that oil not going to cause hot temps in summer?

Been sat a little while and have a little tappet noise, is there a flush or anything that would sort that? Not wanting to sort pushrods etc at the moment.



Chris

just take it for a good run....... i wouldn't put any flush stuff in it, just change the oil if its in need...........


edited to remove typo!

[quote="Mocki"]just take it for a good run....... i would put any flush stuff in it, just change the oil if its in need...........[/quote

Mocki m8, should that read "would NOT" ??

phredd

yep, fingers and brain not in sync with keyboard, well spotted! doh!

Chrissyt,
You wrote..........

Is that oil not going to cause hot temps in summer?

Summer has been cancelled again this year it seems, mind you we do sometimes get a couple of nice days in November.........

I'll get me coat.

Mike

Ha

True! summer has been cancelled for the foreseable. GSF cheap stuff alright?

Cheers

Chris

Ha

True! summer has been cancelled for the foreseable. GSF cheap stuff alright?

Cheers

Chris

Chrissyt wrote:Ha

True! summer has been cancelled for the foreseable. GSF cheap stuff alright?

Cheers

Chris

Why buy el cheapo crappo stuff for your beloved T25?

GSF no longer stock VW Quantum brand oil but they now stock another quality brand called Fuchs. So just buy Fuchs 15W/40 oil.

Folk buy el cheapo cos oil isn't cheap. Nothing wrong with cheap oil if you change it regular. Mine is rarely in longer than 3 months.

decent oil is worth it every time cheap oil should only be used to flush out engines or use in lawn mowers etc why spend a fortune on your van to put cak in it !!!!

blimey yopu are treating bullet proof mechanics as scetchy high tech wizardry!!!!

just turn the key.......

if it goes then camp. otherwise stay at home this weekend

sometimes my camper feels alive other days it feels tired, sometimes it rattles and squeaks othertimes it seems smooth and willing.

the more I muck around with it the more I find wrong with it, leave it alone and it is all good.

------------------

I cant think of any benefit from writing this post. just be summery if it breaks down then fix it otherwise enjoy the summer

I like that attitude bud!

I only say the gsf stuff, as thats what it says in the WIKI?

I dont really want to spend a fortune on oil really as the engine is ancient and i havn't really spent a fortune on it, it's a £300 van! Decent oil is silly money!

Seems false economy to spend big money on oil when my engine sounds like a skeleton having a W$nk in a biscuit tin!

Chris

Can only say I've used cheap oil on lots of vdubs over 20 odd years and never had an engine fail or overheat or wear prematurely. More expensive oils 'might' have better cling properties but as I say I change mine regular. If folk want to buy into all the additives and formulations thats up to them but these are very simple engines with far less parts than modern engines plus they're not doing anywhere near the amount of revs of modern stuff. Mine gets changed every three months regardless.

It doesn't follow that a cheaper oil is actually inferior but good maintenance, regular changes (including filter) is important. Oil manufacturers are however very good at persuading us that their miracle oil is so much better and that whatever we'd been using up until then was neglectful on our part. They have a vested interest - money. Thats not to say that better oils don't exist but theres plenty of evidence to show that engine wear is no different between an expensive oil and a cheap one on something as low revving as these engines. If you're running a Subaru or something then its an entirely different matter. Todays cheap supermarket multigrade still far exceed the needs of your average vw boxer.

I've built many, many high powered engines for bugs and bays over the years for people and in those instances I've used synthetics or other upmarket oils simply because of the work the engines are doing but for your bog standard lump theres really no point. Its regular changes that are way more important.

There was a phase (maybe still is) that only a monograde should be used in a bug. Baloney - thats a purists myth. I'd rather have an oil that worked in a range of conditions and even a cheap multigrade will do that. We're quite fortunate that the boxer engine gets oil to parts far easier than say an upright block. Those who put £20 oil in their vans will continue to do so in the belief at least that they are giving their engine the 'best'. However, the reality is that it makes no odds. Just change it regular. The perception that because a can of oil is under a tenner is 'cak' is just that - a perception. The evidence isn't there to substantiate it unless you've got a high-revving more modern engine in there which incidently. is why these 'flash' oils were developed anyway - to keep up with modern engines. You won't lose anything by putting an expensive oil in but you won't gain anything either.

Thanks Cov kid, i believe the same, and really cant justify the cost in such a basic engine. If the engine was freshly rebuilt I MAY think diffferently, but as its noisy and of unknown quality at the moment, I cant, fresh cheap oil has got to beat the stinky old treacle thats in there!

Is the gsf stuff their own brand then or? I heard about £8 for 5 litres?

Chris

Is 20/50 ok? Thats the cheap one they have listed on their website?

is the 20 the viscosity when its cold or at lower temps??