Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all

My exhaust needs replacing ( 1.9 DG - earlier type exhaust )

I got a complete "Dansk" made system from Euro parts in Chester ( branches nationwide = http://www.eurocarparts.com/ ) for around £150 = not bad I reckon

I am aware of the issues and horrendous consequences of shearing off the studs that hold the J tubes to the heads.

Idea = hacksaw / file / chisel / hammer the nuts until, with a bit of encouragement they fall off !! ( leaving the studs undamaged )

( Or use a nut splitter - except I don't own one )

Then get some new anti-seize type nuts ( ebay = £4.99 for 10 ) and carefully ease them on the studs with Plus Gas and a back and forth action so they don't jam up.

Is this a good idea ?

p.s. - Still looking for a good DG or DJ engine, mine seems to have "fixed itself" for now but I want another to be on the safe side because it's a daily driver / works van and a camper !! - if you are interested in how an engine can fix itself, see https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 365#297365

Get a plumber's torch or something similar, as long as you can get a nice high, tight flame. Torch each nut one at a time. Get each one cherry red, [ quicker the better, if it takes more than 1 minute to get red hot, it's not hot enough], Then once red hot,saok them with a cold water hose until they are cold to the touch. If done properly, each nut should come off easily and there won't be any damage to the threads of the studs.

In my (admittedly limited) experience the studs corrode more on the outside then inside the alloy head. What you may find is that as you loosen the nuts, the whole stud will just wind out, even if they snap off part-way, a good stud extractor can be used to remove the stub, then just screw in a new one. I've not yet had a stud snap off flush that needed drilling out.

Just checked mine and I have studs with nuts on the gearbox side of the head and Bolts on the other side. Watching this thread with interest as I would prefer to replace my exhaust at home (but an engine out job I don't fancy at all). Looks like the exhaust was changed at some point and bolts used. Was thinking of cutting through the exhaust close to the flanges, drop the exhaust and make lots of room so as to get at the little sooods!

Did mine just after I bought it.
Jacked it, up axle stands, on the drive, which has a big bank separating it from the lane which runs the other side. Struggled and cursed...cursed and struggled, and was just giving it the benefit of my very best barrack room vocabulary at the top of my voice, when from the far side of the bank I heard........... 'Are you having some difficulties Michael?'......... My spinster neighbour from 'up the hill' was on her way with a little pressie for me of some kind no doubt.

Miserable job, definitely go for the cutting 'orf jobby (pipes that is) I would say. Got all my studs (and bolts) out....... replaced all the studs, lots of copper slip or whatever it is called, but I do wish I had known at the time, how little extra a full stainless system would have cost

AngeloEvs wrote:Just checked mine and I have studs with nuts on the gearbox side of the head and Bolts on the other side. Watching this thread with interest as I would prefer to replace my exhaust at home (but an engine out job I don't fancy at all). Looks like the exhaust was changed at some point and bolts used. Was thinking of cutting through the exhaust close to the flanges, drop the exhaust and make lots of room so as to get at the little sooods!

Mine were well stuck but luckily I was replacing the heads anyway. Cutting off the pipes is good and a brave sign of commitment! If you have nuts (I don't mean balls!) a nut splitter would be fine but imposible to access. Cutting through the nuts along the side of the thread with a hacksaw or maybe grinding close to it with a disc or power file will weaken the nut so that when you put a (now undersized spanner0 on it it will open up and release the jam. I have never had much luck with stud extracters and have resorted to welding a nut on busted studs before now. If you have setscrews Oil, heat and patience is about all you can do.
But of course they may just unscrew easy as anything!
Cheers
Ken

i have been dosing mine up with brake fluid mixed with a little parafin for a few weeks now, once or twice a week ( i use the van daily) and im hoping it will do some good..... its going to get changed for a stainless one just as soon as i get in all the funds i have invoiced for, as long as nothing else grabs it first...... still, i figure if just a bit of that waste brake fluid and parafin mix does some good it will be worth it....... my zorst, according to my paperwork is the VW original from the factory in 89, as far as the knuckle joint......... the rest i replaced last year with stock from my stores....... with the aid of a grinder

Hey Mocki, let me know when you do yours.......I will be round as a willing little helper, make tea, scrape knuckles, etc. Might give me the courage to do me own.......there again, might convince me not to....

i doubt it will be anytime this side of september, these invoices take ages to get sorted! and im away most of aug anyway........ but ill keep you in the loop!

havent even decided which ss sys to go for yet

Where's the best place to get new head to exhaust bolts/studs & nuts? And is it best to put stainless ones in?

AngeloEvs wrote:Just checked mine and I have studs with nuts on the gearbox side of the head and Bolts on the other side. Watching this thread with interest as I would prefer to replace my exhaust at home (but an engine out job I don't fancy at all). Looks like the exhaust was changed at some point and bolts used. Was thinking of cutting through the exhaust close to the flanges, drop the exhaust and make lots of room so as to get at the little sooods!

As far as I'm aware my old exhaust (1.9 DG early type) was held on by 8 bolts. I had Plusgassed the bolts several times before taking it to the garage where the mechanic heated each bolt before attempting to undo it. Sort of heat/tap tap /heat/tap tap. He got all the bolts off OK.

The exhaust fitting kit from GSF had 8 bolts in it but no studs. The only studs were in the tail pipe fitting kit. The mechanic used Copperslip on all the new bolts etc.

lloyd wrote:Where's the best place to get new head to exhaust bolts/studs & nuts? And is it best to put stainless ones in?

Good quality anti seize type Nuts from the guy I got mine from on fleabay, like item number 360074229542

I reckon you could get the studs from there too or from Simon at Brickwerks perhaps, or from Just Kampers, GSF, Euro Car Parts, etc. As fas as I know they are a standard 8mm threaded stud.

It seems that original fitment was studs and nuts at the gearbox end and bolts at the rear, I do not know why. Mine has been fitted with studs all round at some time.

By the way, I was always told not to use copper slip on parts that got very hot, perhaps an expert can confirm or deny this is true ?

syncroandy wrote:I've not yet had a stud snap off flush that needed drilling out.

I have

Not on my Camper ( yet !!! - but watch this space, I will be doing mine in the next 48 Hrs )

When it happened to me, I tried to drill the flush part of the stud, after carefully centre popping it. That seemed to be going OK until the drill broke off flush too !!

From past experience, "easy out" stud extractor don't work most of the time either.

Wiki has info on this at -> https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Te ... bolts/nuts

I usually dremel the heads off and use a 'chuck' type extractor, first made by Klann(100 plus vat), now sold by Sealey (£20) not as good, but useful. I find drilling out to be almost impossible in situ so if the hitting with a hammer and the extractor fail, it's out with the bugger so you can get a straight run at it.

THey used to come with 2 studs on eight head and 2 holes for bolts.

Screwfix are the boys for stainless all thread and stainless nuts. I buy nearly all my nuts and bolts from them.

Also... A good set of single hex sockets is magic. Even a slightly worn bolt head will catch with single hex and if that fails, you go one socket lower and hammer it on. It does wear out 12mm sockets, but £3 for a socket against hours of drilling and tapping... No contest.

It seems that original fitment was studs and nuts at the gearbox end and bolts at the rear, I do not know why. Mine has been fitted with studs all round at some time.

so that you can remove the exhaust as a whole peice. I welded my exhaust instead of braking the camper some more.