Club 80-90 Forums

For the Wiki

Could someone who knows the wasy to get this in and out easily, please reply with a brief write-up of the stages and pros and cons.

Pitfalls, gotchas, and best practice, equipment needed for engine removal and refitting. Things to chekc at the same time etc.

Bullet point notes will do.

Many thanks, then I'll Wiki it.

waterboxers. or waterboxes?

I have an under slung watertank in a box

d'you mean that Clive?

OK, Kev, while you're doing the one on waterboxes, a few words on the same for waterboxers please - thanks for volunteering

Will expect it on my desk by 9-00 tomorrow morning

HarryMann wrote:For the Wiki

Could someone who knows the wasy to get this in and out easily, please reply with a brief write-up of the stages and pros and cons.

Pitfalls, gotchas, and best practice, equipment needed for engine removal and refitting. Things to chekc at the same time etc.

Bullet point notes will do.

Many thanks, then I'll Wiki it.

Well when I replaced all four rear engine mounts I dropped the rear cross member away from under the engine. Then when I had my gearbox fixed I undid the four fixings at the nose of the gearbox. I surmise therefor that had I done both jobs together my engine would have fallen out under the van. Having established that then guess that by disconnecting a few pipes and wires it would be posible to drag it out and Bobs your uncle. However some other wag will be better equipped mentally to talk you through that tedium. My point is that I supported the engine by building a simple bridge over the engine cover aperture and used a string hoist to support the engine. Take this a bit further and you could lower an engine to the ground and roll the van away from it.

The vehicle needs to be jacked up well and safely!

Take off the hoses etc. If you want to drain, there are 6mm allen key screws in between 2 push rod tubes on both heads.

The bottom engine nuts (17mm) Then a trick... 2 pieces of 3x2 timber pushed into the outer CV shells they will support the box at exactly the angle for removal and fitting and mean that you don't need to remove the gear linkage. There are all the tins around the engine (guards etc)
I always remover the header tanks.

You can then remove the 13mm bolts at the ends of the support bar and lower the engine so the 3x2s take the weight. Then the top bolts.

Best taken out in one piece.

Even if you have to hire one, get a decent trolley jack and some good axle stands.

Not long ago, I was bruised from shoulder to knee because I took a short cut on jacking safety.!!! I thought I was going to die.

outer CV shells

the gap between the driveshaft and the trailing arm?

Laurie, thanks for the lowdown that'll be included.

Outer CV shells

That's how I read it too Bob...