Club 80-90 Forums

Hey all, I'm new to the scene, just got my first T25. Thought I'd dive in the deep end by attempting to paint half of her using CovKid's roller method:

http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=18751

I've read loads on how to paint, but I'm finding it hard to find info on how to prep well, and since everyone seems to agree that the paint job is only as good as its prep, I want to do it right. Does anyone have some basic tips on how to begin? Should I literally just be rubbing it down to smooth it then key it? Cheers for any advice.

First of all is to register with E-bay and do a search for 'Elbow Grease' , coz you are gunna need loads of the dam stuff........


Regards

Fritz,,,,,,,,,,,,

Got plenty already; a suplus of elbow grease, a deficit of moolah, that's why I'm doing it this way

ok wondershins.....

are we talking scbby body with bits of rust

or stone chips dotted around

or full scale nastiness - holes etc?

It will all need rubbing down for a key for the new paint.....but we are talking surface scratching...not grooves!

First off....visit your local pound shop - you maight find a big pack of wet and dry sandpaper of varying grades.

If you have mucho rusto you may want a sanding disc on your drill (I had a wire brush to get some of mine off!) Wilkinsons do decent sanding materials at good prices. The its off to e-bay for VACTAN, or halfords for KURUST (similar products....vactan is recommended by members - but I have gallons of kurust to use first!. _Don't be tempted to get a huge bottle, it goes a looooooong way - its like painting milk on. Follow the instructions, and you can slow down the naughty cancer worm! (you can also go inside and treat panels in the van, then waxoyl etc etc)

If you have minor dings you may wish to leave them in ( I did, as I am not good enough with the filler to get them looking good). Bigger holes (had some of them as well require filler). This is an acquired skill...if you can ice a cake, you can do this. Practice, practice proctice.....I am getting better.

oh - and yes, as with everything prep is the answer. But be realistic: - I have got some AWFUL panels on mine, that for now have had the lumpy filler sanded as smooth as I can with the time and enthusiasm allowed, and have resolved myself to a panel change in the future. (it came to me with some pretty awful filler jobs....but a sanding disc on the drill has made them look alot better. I don't want concourse.....just sommat that looks half decent for the insurance agreed value!!!heheh)

BUT - my bus was blue and scabby. Now its organge and lumpy in places. The rust has been taken off, treated and painted......BUT WILL COME BACK and will need panels replacing. But thats the beauty of this paint....having a little extra in the shed, so that once the new panel is on, I can just get the paint out, and get the same shine and colour!

Have fun......hope that helps

Em
x

if you are doing a whole van worth buying a random orbit sander, saves on the elbow grease, and is less savage than a sanding disc on a drill, and doesn't score paint like a sanding disc on a drill can 'cos it orbits randomly.

Skell - thanks for that......all useful information!

Em
x

Random Orbital Sanders are good for prepping for primer, knocking down filler, but they are not good prep for the final colour/lacquer coats.
For that you need wet n dry, time and a chami leather to wipe off the water to check progress.

Get some black spray paint.
Spray random lines over your primer before flatting,you know you`ve flatted it all when the black paint has gone.

Cheers for the tips everyone. The current paint job isn't actually too bad at all, and the van seems mercifully free of rust. Definitely no big holes. I'm mainly doing this for cosmetic reasons, but likewise I'm not being unrealistic - I don't expect to get a perfect finish first time

I'm glad someone asked this, I'm having a few issues with prep / rust repair.

Just filled a hole (with filler ) and found when sanding back that the bodywork had been bent out some what at the bottom . This has left me trying to grind back the metal to get a smooth finish. Any advice for next time?

Also, thinking that I will need to use gauze to fill the larger holes. not got any yet, but how do you fix it in place?

Watched the guys at Bug Jam lowering the van...make it look so simple

Russ

lowering a van is simple 3 hours to do mine and never done it before

daisy - I have used the gauze before, and this is how I did it...

knock all loose rust out from the hole, and apply copious amounts of rust treatment - front and back.

then cut some metal gauze (got mine from halfraunds) just a bit bigger than the hole. If you can get behind the hole, it helps. I then mixed filler and put it round the edge of the hole. I then used this as glue to hole the gauze in place. Allow to harden. You can now fill the hole in the standard way.

Dunno if this is how the pro's do it!!

Em
x

I managed ok with a cheap flat sander to be honest - low as £12 in some places.

Essential thing to prep is get it as flat and as smooth as you can. A spraycan full of high-build primer is useful for filling grazed areas and for highlighting lumps.

woodola Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 6:47 pm Post subject: Re: Prepping for beginners...

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lowering a van is simple 3 hours to do mine and never done it before

Sorry Woodola, I ment lowering like this...



...a bit longer than 3 hours I'd say!

The bodywork prep was amazing to watch

ermie571 wrote:daisy - I have used the gauze before, and this is how I did it...

knock all loose rust out from the hole, and apply copious amounts of rust treatment - front and back.

then cut some metal gauze (got mine from halfraunds) just a bit bigger than the hole. If you can get behind the hole, it helps. I then mixed filler and put it round the edge of the hole. I then used this as glue to hole the gauze in place. Allow to harden. You can now fill the hole in the standard way.

Dunno if this is how the pro's do it!!

Em
x

Thanks Em, That's how I figure it must be done, but thought I'd best ask first. Better get a few yards of it then