Club 80-90 Forums

I was thinking of buying a compressor and having a try at spray painting.

Does anyone do their own painting on here?

I've a garage big enough to get a car in and a couple of scooters.

I only want to paint scoots and stuff so this is the kit.

http://www.wolf-online.co.uk/product.as ... ternatives



I'm looking for advice really

once you a have everything smooth.

Stage 1 - Paint the panel with primer - do you thin the primer down?

Stage 2 clean gun using thinners?

Stage 3 - rub down with 400

Stage 4 - paint colour - cellulose paint 60-40 , paint and thinners.
Do you need activator?

Stage 5 - Lacquer if needed.

Is this sort of a basic routine ?

I understand that it's a skill, but is this basically right.

Cheers

Hi ,
i am a sprayer by trade and paint trains for a living.
I had a look at your kit and think you will be ok for painting small items like the scooter panels , but reckon you will struggle with bigger items like doors.
To be honest i think the small compressor's are not really worthy having and seem expensive for what you get , i normally recommend using the great setup from EARLEX ( b&q or homebase ) its basically a gun and compressor.
I have completed a whole car spray job with this just to see what the finish would be like and it was bloody amazing !!!!
I now use this bit of kit for wings and bonnets , basically repair work and have never had any complaints , even the guys i work with have seen the light and bought 1.
You can use gloss , emulsion , masonary , 1K , 2k and even chassis paint in it and have a quality result that will rival most bodyshops.
Get the biggest EARLEX spray station you can find and enjoy the world of painting !!!!!! @ 120 quid BARGAIN

Nearly-Def wrote:" The louder the better !!!!! " - cos im getting old and can hardly hear !!

Hehe, we're not all nearly deaf though and I can hear it in Berko when the wind's from the North

When spraying cellulose I've found the 50:50 mix on the primer and initial base coats of colour fine but then thin down the paint further nearer 30:70 on the last couple of top coats.

Per the manufacturer's instructions perhaps? The shop where you bought the paint should be able to supply. Most paint makers have a website.

don't guess, and stir thoroughly. You won't get a second chance later! You can get a viscosity meter, a simple plastic cup on a stick with a calibrated hole in the bottom, if you want, to check the correct viscosity.

I'd suggest using the same brand thinner and paint. PPG and DuPont both make good stuff, but I doubt they stay up nights and weekends working on cross-compatability between their various paints and thinners.

I have (in the past) sprayed about 20 cars using 'Celly' but it is now restricted and more difficult to get, same with Acrylic so check you can get these paints. Cellulose is very forgiving and if you make a hash of it you can flat it back the next day and try again. If you can get 'celly' then use a slow thinner, the mix will depend on your gun and compressor and you will nee to experiment with it. Celly will need flatting back and polishing about a week (month even better) after the final coat has been applied. You will need to flat between coats with 400/600. Final flat should be at least 1000 or even 1600 for a high shine followed by lots of rubbing compound, water and severe arm ache. I always finished with a 'mist coat' (tip given from a pro!) 10% paint 90% slow thinners. Absolute must - get a carbon filter mask even if you are spraying outside!

I managed to put my hands on some 2000 wet and dry. A lad said it was great to get a deep shine on colours like black.

Yep, black is the worst... goodness knows why Henry Ford insisted upon it!

Keep those rubbing down strokes all in one direction with 1000, 1200 or even that amazing 2000 and they will all merge together beautifully...

'Scrub at it', even with 1200 and you will not be happy if it's black!