Club 80-90 Forums

So, I managed to get a complete front spoiler, but no fittings. Can anyone tell me the VW part code for the front 3 section fittings ( I have the side ones) Thanks

They are Rivnuts, Baxter sells `em, or some people just re-drill and pop-rivit the lot on.

what are rivnuts? do I need a tool to fit them?

fried chicken wrote:what are rivnuts? do I need a tool to fit them?

[img:800:545]http://tdithunder.com/images/rivnuts.jpg[/img]

[img]http:542:300]http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-pa ... ol-kit.jpg[/img]

[img:565:340]http://www.tpub.com/content/tentsshelte ... 4_67_2.jpg[/img]

yes you need a special tool!! can get them from here not to expensive!

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/rivnut-kit-b ... -718-p.asp

Aluminium rivnuts + steel body panel = corrosion .... remember the rust bags of British cars in the 70's when aluminium was used a lot for external fittings ....so make sure you paint the holes before fitting and also afterwards - steel will rust around the aluminium.

End of materials science lecture!

Thanks for the replys, had a quick look in a friends kit car catalouge yesterday & saw rubber rivnuts? anyone had experiance of these?

Aluminium + steel = corrosion = Landrover

Painting will help, but the crimping action will probably damage the paint surface.
Placing a thin copper/brass washer between the rivet nut and the panel will also help.

I've just finished fitting mine, I bought 50 steel M6 rivnuts off ebay (£4.00 posted) and used a homemade tool, you need a good quality M6 x 75 bolt, a M6 nylock, a good quality M6 nut, a M8 nut and 2 M6 repair washers. A 10mm socket, 10mm spanner and 13 mm flat spanner.

Assemble the tool by screwing the nylock almost all the way on to the bolt, leave enough gap so when the socket is on the bolt the nylock is flush with the bottom of the socket this keeps everything square. then screw the normal M6 nut on, one washer, the M8 nut, the other washer then finally the rivnut.

You want a couple of threads showing through the rivnut, wind the M6 nut until the washers are tight on the rivnut. Then you can put the rivnut through the hole.

To use hold the bolt and nylock still with the socket, put the 13mm spanner over the M8 nut and hold still, wind the M6 nut with the 10mm spanner, it will get really tight as the rivnut starts to deform, then it becomes quite easy for a few turns as soon as it starts to get harder to turn again stop.

It sounds complicated but isn't really, once you've done a couple they only take a minute each.

DON'T use cheap bolts, I started using a long M6 bolt from an Aldi pack, it would be fine for one then the threads stripped doing the second one, with a decent quality bolt I did the other 9 with no problems.

Off to fit the side pieces now.

mike_gee32 - good tip, but I am a little unclear about the M8 Nut,
What is its purpose?

Can you get a photo of your set up or even a sketch, it would be good for the wiki.

Any chance of a photo?

Kev

I'll try to get some photos at the weekend, had a horrible day, taking out the leisuredrive interior to fit a multivan full width rock and roll and seatbelts, fit spoiler and the n/s opening 1/4 light. Spoiler went on a treat, interior out BUT chipboard floor stuck down with a sticky black glue, probably seamsealer or silkafix 4 hours to chip it all off!!! The only good news is that there isn't much rust behind the old units but I will need a couple of plates where the sink drain and cut out for the gas were.

I started trying to use the tool described here
http://www.x-eng.co.uk/rivnut.asp
but as I bought the thin sheet rivnuts which have almost no flange they just kept spinning. By using the tool I described holding the top of the bolt and 13mm spanner still they don't turn at all.