Club 80-90 Forums

How is this job done on an 84 T25? Is it an easy job? I know doing the back ones is a nightmare but are the front ones as difficult? Will I need any special tools?

Also, how can I tell if I need the 79-84 wheel bearings or the later ones? I dont know which model year my van falls into.

VIN No.

The seal changes at Chassis No. 24A 0024 012 (ETKA says from 251 407 641 C to an A) - a bit weird*
Outer bearing at Cha No. 24E 023 827 (ETKA says from 211 405 645D to a B) - also a bit weird*

Inner Bearing common Pt. No 113 517 185C

* So ask VW based on your Chassis number

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Ian.

I sold my manual along with my Syncro. Since Ive just bought this van I havent had the chance to get those type of things.

Thanks for the help. It sounds like a fairly straightforward job. In the process I'll most likely be replacing the front brake pads and flexi-pipes and if needs be, the brake discs as well.

Do you need a press to put the bearings in the disks?

Ta

Ringo

ringo wrote:Do you need a press to put the bearings in the disks?

Ta

Ringo

Use of a suitably sized socket and a hammer should persuade the cheeky little chaps in one would imagine ... or a vice and squeeze them in using said socket.

Ian.

If you have no press, put the bearings in the freezer (over night) and then put the discs in a low oven (remove when golden brown - joke).

It will make it easier and use a Hardwood drift if possible.

Use of a suitably sized socket and a hammer should persuade the cheeky little chaps in one would imagine ... or a vice and squeeze them in using said socket.

That would be some big socket to fit the outer race !

Freeze/warm sounds a good idea, brass or even a steel drift fine as long as you alternately drive opposite edges and DON'T let it slip off into the ball-cage, EVER! So hold it well (with non-greasy hands!). Getting it started evenly all the way around dead straight rather than wanting to rock every time you tap it is the trick, which freezing/warming will help you do. Don't rush, keep knocking them in until hard against shoulder...
Check and cleanup shoulder first so theres no burrs from extracting old ones (edge of a file). Clean housings thoroughly so you can see the seat/shoulder is undamaged.
Pack them well with Castrol LM type high temp bearing grease or similar (must say for wheel bearings, usually Lithium based) forcing between cages but don't completely fill the cavity, an air gap is needed for expansion.

Get good quality bearings, not GSF as you will have to replace them every 3 months if you do.

Yes, but I think you'll find GSF do 2 qualities, plastic ones and metal ones

- ask if they have OEM equivalents, forget the brand to ask for but can find out. The seals should be OK from GSF too and a fair bit cheaper...

GSF only do one quality, Vetech. They are made from chocolate in China.
Expect them to last anywehere from 100 miles upwards.
I replaced one just the other day a guy had had fitted at another "specialist" and it lasted about 300 miles so it didn't do bad.
It had totally collapsed and you could rock the wheel about 2" top to bottom.
They are that good.

One the other hand..

You won't beat SKF if fitted properly.

Knocking in with a socket, pressing in with a socket, using a hardwood punch, don't let it slip off into the ball cage? the bearings aren't even fitted at this point! and adjust the nut until all play is taken out?......sorry guys! but have any of you actually replaced taper roller bearings and races? well properly anyway....
All you need is a good sized hammer (1.5lb should do it) and a steel parallel pin punch 6-8mm and a pair of pliers (slip grips) for the nut.

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Ball-Pein- ... aley-BPH24

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/5-Piece-20 ... er-5P?sc=9

You do not load taper roller bearings and there should be slight play if adjusted correctly.
Martin

Hehe! Memory's gone Si, only bought some nice bearings from you a month ago, because I couldn't trust GSF

Shame, as 18 mths ago GSF were selling half decent bearings...
The way reliable supply lines of even common parts is going, think we'll be relying on you and a few other specialists to maintain an increasing range of parts for T25s - removes the doubt factor on price Vs quality if genuine VW are out of the question.

What's obvious is how many T25s out there are in good to very good condition and some will be reaching 30 soon - nice to see a lot of owners are digging deep to keep their pride and joys in good repair.
Hint - the Holiday fund is a good one to raid, as that's what it is to a lot of us

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Just PM Martin for all your technical requirements

Ian.

Red Westie wrote:Knocking in with a socket, pressing in with a socket, using a hardwood punch, don't let it slip off into the ball cage? the bearings aren't even fitted at this point! and adjust the nut until all play is taken out?......sorry guys! but have any of you actually replaced taper roller bearings and races? well properly anyway....
All you need is a good sized hammer (1.5lb should do it) and a steel parallel pin punch 6-8mm and a pair of pliers (slip grips) for the nut.

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Ball-Pein- ... aley-BPH24

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/5-Piece-20 ... er-5P?sc=9

You do not load taper roller bearings and there should be slight play if adjusted correctly.
Martin

You have got me confused now - this sounds like conflicting advice.

So what are you supposed to do with the hammer and punch?

Tap the bearing in? - i would have thought hitting a small punch with a big hammer would do some damage...

Ringo