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With fridge removed, remove the plastic cover covering the switch unit to access to the terminals, be careful to avoid damaging the thermo-couple as you remove the cover. Here is where you can measure the heater elements. Disconnect the wires but draw a diagram of the connectors and which wires are connected to them, using a mult-imeter on the lowest ohms range measure the resistance of each element in turn.
The elements are located in a vertical cylinder located at the rear of the fridge and can be recognised as follows:-
Early Models, the 240v has a heavier gauge two core brown cable and an earth tag attached to the body of the heater. Resistance is around 450 ohms.
Later Models, the 240v has three core mains cable and heat resistant insulation sleeving. Earlier models have an earth tag on the element itself. (PIC D)
The 12V element has only 2 wires and resistance is around 1.6 ohms
Replacing the Elements
At the rear of the fridge you will see a 'wrap around' cylinder (PIC A and C) that encloses the insulation in which the elements are located, if yours has the mild steel wrap around then locate the seam and fold back the small tabs until you are able to part it down the seam. Earlier models, i.e. RM212, use two removable aluminium straps and foil to contain the insulation. In both types, it is not necessary to remove it completely, however, it looks like white asbestos or fibre-glass so take care when handling, just part the insulation to access the heater elements. Snip any cable ties holding the cable in place and carefully remove the suspect heater by pulling upwards out of the tubular sections that hold it in place. When re-assembling, clad any exposed insulation with tin foil and copper wire to secure (PIC F).
The Gas Jet/Burner Assembly
The Jet/Burner assembly is located at the bottom of the burner and visible without necessarily having to remove it. Check the gas jet isn't covered with debris and soot.
Removal.
To remove the burner assembly, (PIC E) remove the securing screw and pull it carefully away. If the screw won't budge then use some penetrating fluid and mole grips). The jet is renewable but under no circumstances should you alter the size of the aperture. If blocked remove and clean by soaking in alcohol or similar.
(PIC B) Inside the burner tube/flue is a baffle (a twisted piece of metal) attached to a wire which can be withdrawn, remove any soot on it but do not alter the length. Its function is to retain heat in the lower part of the burner tube.
Clean the burner tube/flue by rolling some 120 wet and dry and insert from each end.
Connect a 12V supply to the igniter terminals (top left side of fridge) and test for a spark. Gap on earlier models is around 10mm, later ones 3mm. Clean the area around the jet/burner of any sooty deposits to ensure a good spark path.
Behind the fridge is a small plastic dish and a tube that feeds into it. This item fills with water when the fridge defrosts. Simple mod, disconnect the tube from the drip tray inside the fridge and connect a small length of tube so that the water now drains into a small dish placed in the bottom of the fridge. Leave the original pipe in place but block the hole.
(PIC H and G) To check the function of the fridge, particularly on gas, out of the van before re-fitting you will need to get the 8mm adaptor shown and connect to a gas bottle using the regulator. You will need a 12V supply for the spark igniter. Flame should be blue not yellow.
240V operation and thermostat can be checked by making a mains lead up and connecting to a 13A domestic plug.
12V, if the element is OK then just check that you have continuity from the switch to the element.
Hope this helps!
