Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all you T25 nuts,
I am the lucky owner of a 1988 caravelle 1915 cc and when i bought it the temp gauge did not work , so i check out the forum and then went thought all the different things it could be and found it was the temperature sender sensor on the thermostat, So purchased a new one from GFS and fitted it and low and behold it worked and the temp needle sprang into life
.
Of down the road for a test drive and the needle now two thirds of the way across and then every time i slow down for traffic lights and junctions the engine would cut out

Could it be the red fuel sender for the choke that's packed up, the thermostat or a air lock because i did not drain down the system and i only lost a very small amount of water when i changed the sensor.

it could be the sender........
it is more likely you disturbed and /or inavertantly disconnected something whilst performing the operation......

check the wires from the coil to the carb, mostly check the power is getting to the fuel cutoff solenoid - for it will aloow the engine to run under load, but stop it at idle

also check vac pipes, the large one off the end of the mainfold to the servo may have been in your way whilst reaching down, is it leaking?

i doubt you lost enough water for airlock to be your cause of stopping

change the sensor from under the camper and it went really smoothly.

But will check fuel cutoff solenoid and the Vac pipe in the morning and come back to you

Thanks

ok, i always do it from above, coz i hate coolant down my sleeve!!

Well up early and check the wires and power to the coolent sender and got 12 volts

Then the coolent sender (still fitted in the housing) with the the buzzer on the mulit meter and it buzzed........does this mean it working

Checked the vac pipe no leaks

not sure where or how to test the wires from the coil to the carb or the fuel cutoff solenoid

Not to clever when it comes to auto electrics.........

ok,
checking the fuel cut off solenoid
With engine NOT running, but ignition ON remove the wire from the FCS and it should "click" you should be able to feel it if you keep one finger on it. If it clicks as you remove the spade connector from the FCS and when you put it back on, power is getting there.
Double check this by reading the voltage on the black wire that goes to the FCS, it should be +12vdc
However, further to this you may need to unscrew the FCS out of the carb and see that the plunger is free and moving when power is applied (you will need to contact the outer thread to neg to achieve this)

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Thanks steve need to go out this afternoon but should be back by 5 ish
so will try then and let you know

Also just moved the van its now cutting out when its cold unless i keep the revs right

Tony

Is the FCS the side of the carb and has it a black wire and a red coming out of it ????????

if this is the FCS it clicks when i removed it with the ignition on and shows 11.49 on the meter

not sure how to undo the FCS nothing in the hayes manual

Fixed it now running smoothly........

Thanks Mocki tested the FCS as per your instructions and the pin was working fine......

The top of the carb was pretty oiley so cleaned it with petrol and the air line,,,, put it all back and it now runs sweetly

The temp gauge is running just pass the red light be comes down to half way when the heaters working is this normal
Blead the system as Wikis instructions luckly got a big slope on the front of the drive,so no need to jack up the front.

Thanks again Lancaster