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Front coil spring and front shocker
Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 08:55
by BaaaadSlider
After having our van checked by the local garage before we went to cornwall he advised us that the above needed looking at.
Now, having no knowledge of what he was talkin about i am asking the people in the "know" for options.
He wrote on our invoice the following:
"Offside front coil spring broken, offside front shocker leaking slightly"
Are these easy jobs or is better for us to take it to the garage and let him fix it?
Any advice with reference to fiding parts etc or how easy it is to fix would be great thanks

Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 09:42
by ermie571
howdo..
hubby did springs and shocks when he lowered his vans. Can't remeber which was harder, front or back.....don't do just one shock, though....get both front done together. Dunno about springs!
Em
x
Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 09:53
by BaaaadSlider
ermie571 wrote:howdo..
hubby did springs and shocks when he lowered his vans. Can't remeber which was harder, front or back.....don't do just one shock, though....get both front done together. Dunno about springs!
Em
x
Thanks em, so does it mean if its leaking it will need a new one then?

Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 10:00
by ermie571
I believe so, yes....the fuid needs to be inside the shock absorber...it is the fluid that absorbs the shock...no fluid, no shock absorbed, and you will bounce around like an old leaf sprung pram!!! as you will only have springs, and nothing to dampen the spring. And if one has gone, the others are likely to be in a similar state!
You must have hit sommat real hard on that side to take the spring out, and maybe thre has been added pressure on the shock absorber whaich has caused it to fail. (pure conjecture, that)
Think leaking shocks are MOT fail.
Em
x
Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 10:03
by toomanytoys
Yes fit a pair, NEVER fit just 1 to an axle..
I wouls also suggest a pair of springs, either new or used.. there is now way to tell what a single spring will be new.. you may be able to identify the spring on there (paint colour marks) and get a used replacement, but prob not..
fronts are a little more hassle than rears, how mechanical are you and what tools do you have? do you have a haynes manual?
Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 10:05
by Ian Hulley
Back shocks are 2 bolts back springs can be done at the same time ... the shocker holds them in.
Front shocks are a nut on the top and a long bolt through the bottom, for the front springs the top ball joint requires separating .... bit more of a job but still not beyond the capabilities of the carefull DIYer.
Ian.
(edited cos of thickfingeritis

)
Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 10:14
by Titus A Duxass
Before you do it, give the top of the front shocks and the lower bolts/nuts on all shocks a good blathering of your favourite penetrating fluid.
Just to note, my stopped leaking approx. 2 years ago. Yes they do bounce around a bit.
Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 10:30
by BaaaadSlider
ermie571 wrote:I believe so, yes....the fuid needs to be inside the shock absorber...it is the fluid that absorbs the shock...no fluid, no shock absorbed, and you will bounce around like an old leaf sprung pram!!! as you will only have springs, and nothing to dampen the spring. And if one has gone, the others are likely to be in a similar state!
You must have hit sommat real hard on that side to take the spring out, and maybe thre has been added pressure on the shock absorber whaich has caused it to fail. (pure conjecture, that)
Think leaking shocks are MOT fail.
Em
x
Thanks em, i cant think of anything that would've caused this to happen, i certainly havent hit anything.
It had its MOT in March and its only happned since then

Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 10:32
by BaaaadSlider
toomanytoys wrote:Yes fit a pair, NEVER fit just 1 to an axle..
I wouls also suggest a pair of springs, either new or used.. there is now way to tell what a single spring will be new.. you may be able to identify the spring on there (paint colour marks) and get a used replacement, but prob not..
fronts are a little more hassle than rears, how mechanical are you and what tools do you have? do you have a haynes manual?
Thanks for the info, im not mechanical at all and tools wise my dad has a warehouse full of them but i wouldnt know one from the other

Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 10:33
by BaaaadSlider
Ian Hulley wrote:Back shocks are 2 bolts back springs can be done at the same time ... the shocker holds them in.
Front shocks are a nut on the top and a long bolt through the bottom, for the front springs the top ball joint requires separating .... bit more of a job but still not beyond the capabilities of the carefull DIYer.
Ian.
(edited cos of thickfingeritis

)
"A carefull DIYer" you say- is a blonde woman included in that Ian?lol lol
Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 10:43
by Ian Hulley
billybaby25 wrote:Ian Hulley wrote:Back shocks are 2 bolts back springs can be done at the same time ... the shocker holds them in.
Front shocks are a nut on the top and a long bolt through the bottom, for the front springs the top ball joint requires separating .... bit more of a job but still not beyond the capabilities of the carefull DIYer.
Ian.
(edited cos of thickfingeritis

)
"A carefull DIYer" you say- is a blonde woman included in that Ian?lol lol
Being married to a 'blonde woman' you couldn't possibly drag a comment from my lips
What I'm saying is that there's nothing about the job which is too tight or difficult. The top balljoint is held on by 2 socket ('allen' or 'hexagon') head capscrews, these can be a barsteward to undo if the heads have decayed and may have to cut off and replaced .... if you have to do that let me know and I'll post you some more ... it's not a bad idea to fit new screws anyway and fill the head with waxoil or grease for next time
Cheers, Ian.
Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 10:48
by BaaaadSlider
Ian Hulley wrote:billybaby25 wrote:Ian Hulley wrote:Back shocks are 2 bolts back springs can be done at the same time ... the shocker holds them in.
Front shocks are a nut on the top and a long bolt through the bottom, for the front springs the top ball joint requires separating .... bit more of a job but still not beyond the capabilities of the carefull DIYer.
Ian.
(edited cos of thickfingeritis

)
"A carefull DIYer" you say- is a blonde woman included in that Ian?lol lol
Being married to a 'blonde woman' you couldn't possibly drag a comment from my lips
What I'm saying is that there's nothing about the job which is too tight or difficult. The top balljoint is held on by 2 socket ('allen' or 'hexagon') head capscrews, these can be a barsteward to undo if the heads have decayed and may have to cut off and replaced .... if you have to do that let me know and I'll post you some more ... it's not a bad idea to fit new screws anyway and fill the head with waxoil or grease for next time
Cheers, Ian.
Thanks Ian

Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 11:46
by toomanytoys
As with anything, especially to do with brakes, steering and suspension, read the procedure in the workshop manual and if you feel you dont understand/wont be able to do it, get someone that can...
Posted: 11 Jun 2008, 12:35
by BaaaadSlider
toomanytoys wrote:As with anything, especially to do with brakes, steering and suspension, read the procedure in the workshop manual and if you feel you dont understand/wont be able to do it, get someone that can...
Yeah think a trip to the garage might be in order unless i'm feellin rather brave,lol
