Club 80-90 Forums

Hi, I have searched and checked wiki before posting but not so sure.

I have a 1987 Dehler Profi camper 1.9 DG i think, (its a pre 85' engine fitted to the 87'). I am no mechanic but handy enough with tools. I stupidly bodged a filler fix on an exhaust that needed replacing and then sent it to a mechanic for a full service as wifey was heading off for a weekend trip, 280 miles appx. Engine was running brilliant up till then. She picked it up direct from mechanic and headed off, came back with exhaust fooked but insisted that it had been off from when she picked it up, before exhaust disintegrated, i.e. hesitating/sluggish in low gears while accelerating.

He had replaced oils/plugs/air & oil filter etc.

I spoke with mechanic about sluggish problem and he laid it down to the exhaust. So I ordered a complete system and am very proud to say I managed a complete swap with no issues however this has not cured the acceleration problem.

It feel to me (hunch) that it has somthing to do with air intake/mixture or carburation issue. Frankly I do not know any mechanic that I trust and would love to do the work myself, not to save money but to know a proper job has been done. I live in the west of Ireland and feel I am surrounded by cowboys who will always charge the earth adn never seem to fix my problems.

Also I used copper grease when refitting new exhaust system, is it normal for it to smoke badly when first getting really hot?

Any well explained pointers will be very much appreciated,

Blackie

quite normal for the exhaust to smoke... the paint is burning off/curing

has the mechanic adjusted the mixture?

Not mechanic either but you would suspect the exhaust given whats happen. However our vans packed up with a fuel flow problem (see other thread)
but before it went the van wasn't running that smoothly and our mechanice had a look at it twice but couldn't get the mixtire right.

I suspect the fuel pump, fuel link or blockage which is now the suspected problem was the cause of the running problem. Maybe be a read herring for you. Now but might be worth taking not of it the exhaust isn't okay.

Hi Blackiebest take you van out for a run get it warmed up then check spark plugs if the tip is black its running to rich you want light brown colour .

If you are running with a carb might pay to clean out the float chamber could be lots of crap in there , check fuel filter to ,if you are going to maintaine your van yourself a haynes manual will help

Some garages dont seam to understand these vans ive heard stores of the whole engine being dropped out to change the exhaust ,good to use copper slip on studs will help next time round

hope this is useful.

Carefully check all electrical contacts in the engine bay - including all the earthing points (these are fairly critical to a smooth running engine).

What plugs did he fit? I always use Bosch (single point) as other makes have been known to cause problems (i.e. NGK, Champion and Champion multi-points).

Then buy a new set of leads and try those.

check the fuel filter just after the fuel tank.and get rid of the one in the engine bay(if there is a filter there)...

Great you all took the time out to advise me. Now i look forward to the next couple of hours I will spend on her. Will let you know how I get on. Got the Haynes manual with the exhaust from JK. But always better to hear from those more experienced.

Blackie

Have new plug leads been fitted? I bought a new set and two of them kept coming loose on the spark plugs causing symptoms similar to those you describe. Is the gap set correctly on the new plugs?

Has the level in the fuel tank been run down very low, possibly disturbing cr@p that might've accumulated in the bottom of the tank over the years?

Tony

Junior quote.

'Some garages dont seam to understand these vans ive heard stores of the whole engine being dropped out to change the exhaust ,good to use copper slip on studs will help next time round'

That's interesting because I've heard that same suggestion from several of this forums and the brick yards, resident expert mechanics and I'm talking about the ones that actually repair T25's for a living.

Personally I would try to remove the exhaust in situe first but except the possibility that the engine may need removing if studs break.
Unfortunately given the age of these vans and the very real possibilty of snapping head studs, automatic egine removal is often the easiest way.
Martin

I'd rather spend a couple of hours trying to do it in situ (even if I then concluded it wasn't going to happen)than spend them pulling the engine (and box together imho) even though having great access does make the job easier toolwise and anglewise, but plus gas and patience and a little heat can be suprisingly effective, patience especially : )

Check the HT leads and rotor arm resistances as well as security of earths and other connections, easy to pull something off when working in the bay and if you aren't familiar with them miss it on final check.

Again thanks for the replies.

Re; removal of exhaust system, there is no way, I believe, that I could have done it without really taking my time, using my brains and soaking the said nuts every day, for five days before hand with WD40. Then when underneath it really is a 'zen' type approach. Tighten first to check the purchase, tap with hammer gently and persistently, leave one soak some longer if it appears stuck and work on another and patience patience patience...

I ended up taking (carefully) an angle grinder to the pipes to free some space, and having done this it definately made the job much easier. But the big thing is not to sheer a bolt. I can understand a garage dropping the engine to do the job as they would be equiped to do so and would not have the wait time to soak the bolts. USE COPPER RELEASE GREASE as this will make the next time so much easier or if you have the funds, go stainless, would have loved to but €€€€€€€€

Will start to try to teach myself to tune the wasser and let you know how I get on. I never want to hand over the bus to another sh**e mechanic, which my part of the world seems to be populated by

have a look for air leaks on the vacuum side of things tiny split on an old perrished rubber hoze will make a masive diffrence to performance

junior wrote: Some garages dont seam to understand these vans ive heard stores of the whole engine being dropped out to change the exhaust

Taking the engine out can be the best (if not only) route when bolts snap, nuts and studs turn to cheese and tears and tantrums ensue. That's why it's best to fit the bestest exhaust you can afford once you've got the old one off and the studs and fasteners sorted out once and for all.

Ian.