Club 80-90 Forums

Hoping this isn't a portent of doom.
Since my water pump was replaced in the bodyshop late last week - flushed cooling system through, refilled (G12)/bled etc. there is a slight leak from RH Head Gasket.

Not a flood but enough to leave a damp patch on the cardboard.

Hopeful question could this be due to the fresh coolant and engine not yet run up to proper temps for any length of time..>?

Have never noticed any coolant out the bottom of the engine before - but then I haven't had the coolant changed before.

Off away next week for a week - so will go equipped with enough G12 to cover the likely leakage I measure over the next few days - but am interested in any your views.....?

I understand if a head gasket replacement is required then the bolts are unlikely to be straightforward and an engine rep may be on the cards....

New coolant has a 'searching' effect, any weak point & it will find it. Dont put any Radweld in tho, you may get away with a small leak for a while or you may not.

if it has had good coolant in it most of its life, chances are you shouldnt have a head stud problem - late engines dont suffer as bad as the earlier DG's and DF's .

But like Stuckin says, you may well be a while before it needs doing........

Cheer guys,
Have spent some wiki time and search time and the attractive suggestion seems to be "Wynnes radiator stop leak" by the instructions, crossed fingers and recovery insurance.

Will see if the local factors have any and check ont he documents. We may have to call recovery from the beach the day before the end of the hols....

You need to get the system up to temp and rebleed it.. (usually a couple of times) BEFORE you go on your hols.... keep ane eye on the leak.... I strongly suggest not using any "rad weld" in it.. when the rubber gaskets leak nowt stops it.. not even half a tube of silicone sealant (like I just removed from a tired engine I bought for bits)

Just a slight chance ..... make sure the coolant's not seeping from the head drain screw which is an Allen screw between the pushrod tubes (our recon Elite had one of these leaking ... it was barely 'a finger' tight ... the coolant leaks onto the cover, collects and drips as if the jacket seal's gone.

Sadly it's a long shot ... did your 'garage' undo them to drain the system ?

Ian.

Once youve bled the system fully try using Wynns Rad seal, it really does work but cant guarantee how long for, depends on the size of your leak, Mines been ok now for 6 months after using 2 bottles of the stuff (theres a lot of coolant in a T25) to cure a very small drip down the right hand side of the engine. Only warm the engine, just a minute or so and remove the header tank cap,(if you get it too hot you will have water everywhere and have to re-bleed) buy a meat baster sucker thing from Wilko and suck out and save enough coolant, shake the Wynns well and pour in the header tank, top up with what you sucked out (this is presuming its clean and anitfreezed), replace the cap and run up to full op temp. Good Luck and DONT use Radweld..