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Changing Rear Hub Bearings

Posted: 15 May 2008, 21:35
by garyd
Anybody done this as a DIY job?

My manual suggests needing to remove the hub carrier from the trailing arm and using a workshop press to remove and refit the shaft and bearings. Does it really need this?

I suspect that it will take a lot of effort to get the carrier bolts out of the arm but trying to remove & refit the seal and bearing from inside the arm will also be a challenge.

Has anyone done one recently and can give some pointers, please?

I am of course starting by assuming that there should be no play in the bearings - is that right?

thanks
Garyd

hi

Posted: 15 May 2008, 21:44
by billy739
never actually changed a bearing , but have removed the hub carrier, 4 bolts 21 or 22mm i think.
probably from factory there was no play, but play is allowed from a safety and mot point of view.
i would only change if the bearing is noisy
excessive play in the bearing would mean a serious problem probably bearing failure thus noisy as well.

Posted: 15 May 2008, 23:30
by HarryMann
It's not that bad a job, just allow plenty of time, and go at it systematically...

Look at the Wiki on rear brakes and rear brake backplates, note there is a dowel through the backplate from the hub carrier as well as the 3 bolts , which dowel will be seized on backplate, free off a round inner periphery (rust), keep wire brushing all the time to see what is what, need a good socket (22?) or spanner to get the 4 bolts out of hub carrier/radius arm.

Don't use GSF bearings at the mo, see other thread running on this, recently added to it, re: end play of rear wheel after bearings are done. Can manually drift bearings out and back in..

Can lend you a rear hub nut getterererer offerrer (see Wiki, Tools), unles you've already tried loosening them (46mm?) and had success with pudlok.

Posted: 16 May 2008, 19:11
by garyd
Thanks for those comments guys.

Clive, The brakes should dismantle without significant problems since they were totally renewed last year. I have also had the hub shafts out when I replaced the CV joints (Couldn't get at the socket heads inside the trailing arm!)

It was when doing that lot that I look at dismounting the hub carrier and decided it was going to be a real challenge. Do you reckon it can be done in-situ or must it come off?

Garyd

Posted: 16 May 2008, 19:54
by HarryMann
I've always taken it off, done 4 now, and then drive the bearings out on an anvil, just really brush it all up clean and those big set-screws come out OK (do back up to 100 ft-lbf) with the right socket dead-square on.. re-assemble with chromate compound as original build standard (that yucky yellow stuff).

Ignore Haynes et al saying pack the WHOLE housing with grease, bad idea, just pack the bearings well and a bit extra and leave some air in there!

Posted: 17 May 2008, 08:40
by dave friday
The big circlip is a bugger to remove without good circlip pliers [mine kept sliping/bending ] i ground some nedle nose pliers to fit!.
good luck.

Posted: 17 May 2008, 08:47
by HarryMann
Long stout drift to remove bearings. Sometimes getting the bearings to start square in the housings (without a press) is a bit of a game, can use the old outer races and a block of wood across the top, a good initial thwack to get it started square.

Posted: 17 May 2008, 10:19
by monkeynut
Pay for good bearings too, dont buy GSF ones or those from B&B(ebay shop)
there rubbish quality(lots of play)

Posted: 17 May 2008, 13:13
by Tug
I changed mine last MOT....Inners and outers....I cheated i paid to the bearings push in and out at my local garage and fitted it all back together with new cv boots (on the one side) and back plates on both as mine had rust holes appearing in them.
The GSF Bearings are ok one of mine had to be exchanged as it had some movement in it.....I was told to use FAG bearings if i could get them next time but we will see....

Glenn

Posted: 19 May 2008, 12:39
by sendiw
Removing the hub nut will be the hardest part.They can be right sods. If you have problems undoing this drill a 5mm hole into the castle nut up to the hub face and split it with a chisel. Then of course buy a new nut which you're supposed to do anyway. One other point.. be careful not to bend the brake backplate when persuading it to come off or it will catch on the brake drum and make strange grinding noises. I've done this. :oops:
Have fun

Posted: 19 May 2008, 12:56
by HarryMann