Club 80-90 Forums

I have been instaling my 1Y engine over the weekend. All went well till I tried to start it. It turned over freely and the fired a bit went bang and nothing since.

After checking and trying time and time again ziltch not a sausage.

So I decided to check the cam belt timing.

Now as the motor was out when I did cam belt, I tipexed the old one and fitted cam locking plate and the Dia 6mm pin in the fuel pump. But I didnt lock the crank. I fitted new belt and checked all was well.

But after the non start check the whole lot appeared to be out. The cam by one tooth compared with the fuel pump and the crank two teeth out compared with the pump.

My first question must be - will the valves be bent? _ I think I know the answer.

The second is the prominent V mark in the flyweel???? Where the hell is that? What am I looking for? nothing there ziltch ! I have the pointer that clear as a bell but the V? Only V notch I can see is in the Clutch pressure plate and funny enough that more or less lines up.

Anyone bored this evening give me a call and talk me through it please.

I'll call you back.

Treve 07976 086 265 - leave a message if I dont answer.

[img][IMG:409:307]http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f50/l ... dcmark.jpg[/img][/img]

this might help, the notch is on the clutch plate

so i have probably bent my valves then ?

probably

Louey wrote:probably

Refit cambelt with cam locking plate & fuel pump with pin in position.Bottom pully locked at TDC for V in notch.Then try to turn the engine over by hand using bottom pulley bolt.The two teeth out on the pump would cause a start problem but no damage.But two teeth out on the the cam shaft to bottom pulley on TDC will cause valve interference to piston.

Did you fit a new oil pump?

Are you positive your fuel cut off solenoid is open?

Ringo

Slowly turn it over by hand,by puting a socket on one of the pully wheels and you will find out if your valves are bent.

yes oil pump was "cock" on, but had to reface the 1.d bottom plate and use that. but thats all good oil light goes straight out.

yes the imobiliser has been removed and it clicks.

how would i know kit? lack of compression?

When the valves and pistons collide the pistons normally come worse off on 1Y and AAZ's

Great thats cheered me up no end

Thinking about it last night, it might well just have been the pump which was out not the crank / cam - although this could be wishfull thinking on my part. But I cannot understand how the pump is out of sink anyway as the pins and plate where still fitted when the belt was tensioned. Thats the big mystery. I can believe the crank could be wrong as I had nothing to line it up with.

SplendiferousII the cam wheel might have slipped on the taper shaft due to the bolt not tight.

Will check in a min and report back

nope all nuts are tight.

Just been down and stuck a fresh battery on her and its very slow spinning over lots of labouring.

Wipped the rocker cover off and nothing untoward there to see. No broken cam shaft.

Will wip the head of this evening and see whats in there.

Keep you posted.

SplendiferousII wrote:Just been down and stuck a fresh battery on her and its very slow spinning over lots of labouring.

Wipped the rocker cover off and nothing untoward there to see. No broken cam shaft.

Will wip the head of this evening and see whats in there.

Keep you posted.

Woahh - steady on! Removing the head is expensive - wait a second and try as suggested turning the pulley wheel by hand - you may have to take the exhaust off to get a socket in there.

If there is something bent, then you will feel it - it may not even be possible to turn it over.

I had the same issue - and it was the oil pump fouling on one of the con rods - i quick grind soon solved that issue and the engine is a great runner.

Dont forget, taking off the head is very expensive - its cheaper (IMHO) to get another engine. I was reminded of the very same thing when i considered it (thanks Phil ).

I've bought three 1Y's two off the internet - one for £175 and one for £150 (they knew what they wanted for them) and one for £100 from a scrappy that had no idea if it was a runner but with a two month warranty (it runs like a dream ).

Head Gasket set - £30
Head skimmed - £30 at least (cost me £70 last time it got one done)
New stretch bolts - £30
Tool to get head bolts off (spline socket or whatever) - £7
Repairs on current head £?????

Anyway, good luck - i hope its something simple like mine was.

Ringo