Club 80-90 Forums

Hello everyone. I am a new member and I am in serious need of advice. A little history first.

I bought my pride and joy 'Big Red' about a year ago now. I had heard how reliable and what fun they were. She is a 1987 LHD Westfalia Club Joker 1.6 TD (Engine JX), never failed to start and never missed a beat. She had about 310,000 km on the clock when I bought her and we have driven a long way since. Now she has 346,000 km on the clock. I have changed the oil and filter in Estonia (after approx 17,000 km) and then in Italy (after another 19,000 km). Only after the last oil change have things started to go astray.

In Italy, I got a garage to change the oil and I don't know exactly what grade they put in. They also fixed a leaking diesel injector and replaced the small tubes that link them. They cleaned around the injector with some spray and washed it down with water. The injector does not leak anymore. However, when the camper is under load (I drove over the mountains to Rome) the oil was leaking out of the dip stick tube. I thought this may be the wrong grade oil so topped it up with my 10W40 Castrol GTX Diesel and kept on going. Oil was being sprayed all up the tailgate as I was driving but I assumed that this was just residue from the pan underneath. Making a bee line back to the UK I topped up about twice as the oil light would flicker when I turned right around corners at speed.

Getting back to the UK a did a full oil change with the correct oil and made a fix to my dip stick as it was loose at the end and I thought the oil may just be siphoning out when the camper was under load. I prepared for a journey up north and drove 20km under normal load and found no leaks other than a small drip at the dip stick handle. I thought it was fixed. The next day I drove 100km under load up the motorway and had to pull into the services as the oil light started to flicker again. Getting out of the camper the tailgate was covered with oil and the engine tray was full and dripping. The AA man could not see any oil at the front of the engine. It looked as though it had all come out of the dipstick over time. I was taken to a garage and the engine cleaned. New oil put in and no leaks evident when running. Unhappy with the diagnostic, we took the oil filler cap off to check for heavy breathing. When revving the engine, a handful of oil comes spurting out of the oil filler. They checked the breather tube at the top of the engine which is clear.

The garage guys have said they think the piston rings have given way and I am in for a bill 2200 GBP plus! Help!!!

Pull breather pipe of cam cover and start up, there should be a bit of air coming out, if its ok pick the revs upto about 4000rpm and see what happens. It does sound like its coming to the end of its life.

If the engine is worn out try motor salvage.I picked up a 1Y 1.9n out of a caddy £200.

Guys.... Thanks very much for your quick responses. The garage guys took off the breather pipe (cylindrical plastic cover at the top LHS of the rocker cover) and checked if it was blocked. They say it was OK. I think they heard air coming out. Only when put back and the engine revved does the oil come out of the oil filler pipe.

When you say it sounds like it is coming to the end of its life, does this mean I have to get another engine or could I strip her down and replace the piston rings to fix her? I am thinking of leaving the camper at the garage and using their tools to get the engine out and refurb myself. Is this a big job. How long would it take. Where could I get infomation on the process to do this? I have ordered a manual from Just Campers for the 1.6TD engine. Hopefully this will tell me all I need to know to sort out the problem. Will I remove the engine from the top or the bottom of the engine compartment? Any information would be a great help.

Thanks. Dave and Big Red.

dogrady1 wrote:Guys.... Thanks very much for your quick responses. The garage guys took off the breather pipe (cylindrical plastic cover at the top LHS of the rocker cover) and checked if it was blocked. They say it was OK. I think they heard air coming out. Only when put back and the engine revved does the oil come out of the oil filler pipe.

When you say it sounds like it is coming to the end of its life, does this mean I have to get another engine or could I strip her down and replace the piston rings to fix her? I am thinking of leaving the camper at the garage and using their tools to get the engine out and refurb myself. Is this a big job. How long would it take. Where could I get infomation on the process to do this? I have ordered a manual from Just Campers for the 1.6TD engine. Hopefully this will tell me all I need to know to sort out the problem. Will I remove the engine from the top or the bottom of the engine compartment? Any information would be a great help.

Thanks. Dave and Big Red.

Fixing the JX will cost alot of money, it won't be just rings, it will need reboring and pistons, heads are also prone to cracks.

The best option would be to get a 1Y and turbo it or an AAZ, these engines are much longer lasting and nice upgrade in torque.

Removed my engine today 1.6td.This is how i managed it others on here may no better.Undone hoses to expansion tank disconnected wires of loom to engine remove cold start&throttle cable to injection pump removed air box.Drained all fluids oil&water.Jacked up the rear as high possible with axle stands safely on jacking points.Tide up gear box around bell housing with rope across a support in the engine bay.Undone nuts on the through bolts on the flexi rubber engine mountings.Using a commercial trolly jack take the weight of the engine up with a piece of wooden board across and under the sump.Here is the tricky bit after removing the flexi rubber mounting bolts the right hand engine aluminum mount attached to the block interfers pulling out from the gearbox.It would be helpfull to remove them off the block.Use the jack to raise and lower the engine to get it in the right position to extract.Be carefull you dont put to much angle against the gearbox input shaft.

Once again.... thank you very much for your advice. Either way, I think the engine must come out so I think I'll do this and have a look at the damage. I think then I'll see where I can get a new engine to fit back in if it is going to be too much money. I will print out this answer, follow your instructions and let you know how I get on. Cheers.

I 2nd the comment on the 1Y 1.9 conversion. Bought my van with a busted head and fitted a recon one. Had nearly the same problem as yours with losing oil, but mines was being lost from around the dipstick seal ring where it enters the engine block/ sump. Loads of instant gasket later and no oil leak

Def would advice the 1Y conversion, more engine torque and way better MPG, plus it isn't that hard a conversion to do yourself

Hi All,
I have been watching with great interest
I have 1.6 JK , was 1.6 CS and they both blow out of the dipstick !
I was told to try a seperate oil breather tank, would it work
ATB Kris

PS
I have good pistons + new rings in the JK and it still does it, could it be that the seal around the dip stick has got to be REALLY good & tight
As of yet I have not found anywhere that sells them
TTFN

fergus77 wrote:I 2nd the comment on the 1Y 1.9 conversion. Bought my van with a busted head and fitted a recon one. Had nearly the same problem as yours with losing oil, but mines was being lost from around the dipstick seal ring where it enters the engine block/ sump. Loads of instant gasket later and no oil leak

Def would advice the 1Y conversion, more engine torque and way better MPG, plus it isn't that hard a conversion to do yourself

Can some one advice the manifold set up.CS or 1Y thanks.

A few questions and coments, when was the air filter last replaced,have you tried driving the van with the breather tube disconected [replace it with a bit of tubing and put the end in a jar or tin can and fix to the engine].What was the oil consumption before your problems started? Do you fill the engine to just below the top mark on the dip stick?.Some people say that GTX is prone to frothing have you allways used GTX?.
It cost me about £700 to re-conn my JX engine, [ new head rebore/pistons/rings,new bigend and main bearings,new oil pump,head gasket/bolts and vairous odds and sods].
Good luck.
Oh! and check that the hose from the air filter to the turbo is ok!

Hi Everyone. Thanks for all your interest. I certainly am having fun. Today a have disconnected everything ready for the big engine drop tomorrow. All the air, oil, water, electrics, fuel, and power steering connections are done ready for me to look at what I have to do to get the engine out. Just a few answers and questions following your replies.

I don't think the air filter has ever been replaced. I assume this is the big cylindrical thing on the LHS of the engine bay. I have removed that as well today.
I have never tried driving the camper with the breather tube disconnected. Ooops. I just took the garage guys word for it that the piston rings had gone.

Oil consumption before problems started was very good. IE: did not have to top up much at all. Even after oil change in Estonia. No problems. They stared straight after the oil change in Italy. Don't know what grade they put in.

As for the top up level of oil. I don't really know as the dip stick is loose at the handle and I can move the rubber bung about half an inch up and down. I just used to top up when it looked as though it was getting to the low mark and I put in about one quarter of a litre. But I only did this about 4 times on my round the world trip. I have only ever topped up with Castrol GTX 10W40 diesel. No problems. Does anyone know where I can get a new dip stick?

I would love to know what the 1Y conversion is. Please expand. I recieved my Just Campers manual today. I have been reading it and I have probably took more off than I needed. I had to take the alternator off to get at the main negative terminal to the engine from the battery for access.

I'll keep you all posted of my progress. Tomorrow engine out. Then I'll look at getting new pistons and rings in it if it don't look too bad. If anyone knows where I can get another engine cheap (I am virtually pennyless after my trip!) please also let me know.

Also the book says I can drop the engine without dropping the gearbox. I am looking at how this might work and can't see how I will get clearance to pull the engine back from the gearbox without it fouling on the belts and pulleys. Any suggestions?

It will come out dont forget to remove the overflow tank that is behind the number plate.You need to use the trolly jack with a piece of board under the engine.Support the gearbox bell housing with rope tighed up across the engine bay on a pole/other.Raise & lower the jack as to get the engine into position as to pull away from the gearbox.I managed it that way so take courage dont dispair.

Thanks. I forgot about the water overflow/filler/expansion tank beghind the number plate. I'll do that first thing tomorrow. The camper is already jacked up on axle stands and I think I am going to need all the courage I can get. I am a virgin engine out guy.

Dave Friday... where did you get you 1.6TD JX engine refurbed for 700 GBP. I have been looking on the web for both refurb and a new/recon engine. Not come up with much at the moment. I will have to decide tomorrow whether to refurb or just exchange my engine for another.

I am probably going to have another fun day tomorrow!

dogrady1 wrote:Thanks. I forgot about the water overflow/filler/expansion tank beghind the number plate. I'll do that first thing tomorrow. The camper is already jacked up on axle stands and I think I am going to need all the courage I can get. I am a virgin engine out guy.

Dave Friday... where did you get you 1.6TD JX engine refurbed for 700 GBP. I have been looking on the web for both refurb and a new/recon engine. Not come up with much at the moment. I will have to decide tomorrow whether to refurb or just exchange my engine for another.

I am probably going to have another fun day tomorrow!

Anyone offering a recon on a JX for £700 is using very nasty parts and do the absolute bare minimum to get by. For £700 you could get a 1.9 and have plenty left over.