Club 80-90 Forums

1986 T25 1.9DG
Has anyone replaced the main front to back (over the fuel tank) metal brake pipe and how easy/difficult was it? Not got a ramp so it will be a jacked up onto axle stands and lay on my back job!
Can the new pipe be routed along a different path rather than struggle putting it back over the fuel tank.
Also due to siezed front bleed nipples can it be bled via the metal pipe that enters the calliper??
Thanks

Hi Paul

I changed mine last year, i managed to carry it out on the drive by having the rear end on axle stands.
Not sure if i was just lucky but the new pipe went between tank and van quite easy. The main problem was getting the old one out.
The system will have to be bled at the bleed nipples, i know this isnt what you wanted to hear.

Jonno

It's a common 'new owner' find .... bleed nipples snapped off etc .... trouble is often if the nipples snapped off then the small pipe will do as well, then the flexy's bonded to that etc etc etc.

When we first bought The Bus at the first MOT we ended up replacing the entire braking system, front to back .... 3 flexy hose ferrules were corroded, small pipe that fastens to that then turned to plasticene, and into the calipers and the nipples lalalalalalalala ..... for what it cost I replaced the lot.

I now grease the kunifer pipe joints and the ferrules when the thing's got it's legs in the air for servicing and don't have to worry unduly.

Ian.

thanks guys, the flexis and other pipes look like they have been replaced in recent years, i was suprised the nipples are solid because when that work was done it must have been bled out then.
jonno, did you buy the complete new pipe from somewhere or make it up yourself??
Paul

Paul

I made the pipes up myself after buying a flaring kit from screwfix for £20 http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsess ... laring+kit

and picked up a coil of pipe and connectors from brakes international
http://www.brakeparts.co.uk/

Jonno

Thanks Jonno, may have a go and do it myself if i can raise enough enthusiasm otherwise its off to the local garage to empty my wallet
Paul

Try WD40ing your nipples for a few days, then warm them up with a heat source (I use a gas blow torch (Caution)) and use a deep 6-pointed socket.

Titus A Duxass wrote:Try WD40ing your nipples for a few days, then warm them up with a heat source (I use a gas blow torch (Caution)) and use a deep 6-pointed socket.

Yes tried that apart from the 'heat' i thought it was a no no to use heat on callipers due to damage to the internal seals.
Tried soaking regular over the last few weeks and tapped the nipple with a toffee hammer to break the seal but its solid, think i will snap it off and use an 'easy-out' to try and remove it..
thanks Paul

You can be fairly aggressive with the heat, remember that your brakes get very hot with normal use.

If you are going to snap them off try and undo them first.

You may wnat to try and tighten them up at first, but only a little bit.
It may help break the corrosion.

Thanks Titus, good point, will give it a go at the weekend.
Did try the tighten it first method already..
Thanks Paul

Lol - my bus failed on the centre pipe left year. What it was, I hadn't been able to get the old one out when I went over to copper and for some reason they failed a brake pipe that went nowhere either end.

You could get away without bleeding the front brakes as the F to R pipe connects to the brake compensator? just under the floor, O/S/F.
So as long as you didn't allow too much fluid drain air shouldn't get to the front line (use an old union with the pipe turned over pipe to stop leaking from compensator)
Just be aware that the gear selector rod also goes throught the same tunnel as the F to R b/pipe, this means you must be 100% certain it doesn't foul the new pipe in any way.
Try a ring spanner on those front nipples or deep single hex socket.
Give the end of the nipple a solid knock with a copper hammer.
Martin

You can bodge to get home all you want, but brakes are important to you, your family and others... never skimp on them...

sounds like the gorilla that did the brakes last time over tightened them.. they really dont need to be wrung up super tight.. like you say.. easyouts might be the way..
Use a 6wall drive socket and a swift tap with a hammer.. you might get lucky..

Red Westie wrote:You could get away without bleeding the front brakes as the F to R pipe connects to the brake compensator? just under the floor, O/S/F.
So as long as you didn't allow too much fluid drain air shouldn't get to the front line (use an old union with the pipe turned over pipe to stop leaking from compensator)
Just be aware that the gear selector rod also goes throught the same tunnel as the F to R b/pipe, this means you must be 100% certain it doesn't foul the new pipe in any way.
Try a ring spanner on those front nipples or deep single hex socket.
Give the end of the nipple a solid knock with a copper hammer.
Martin

Thanks Martin,like the sound of poss being able to get away without bleeding the fronts if i fail to get the nipples undone..suppose then the best idea would be to crimp flat the front/rear pipe then cut and fold over as near to the compesator as possible, then remove the pipe from the rear 3 way union? this should keep most of the fluid in the front section, then quickly remove this piece when refitting the new pipe, if you know what i mean?
Is there any fixing points for the pipe inside the tunnel you mentioned or does the pipe just lay in it next to the gear selector rod and how do you know if its in the correct 'safe' position?
Oh have tried the 'shock' treatment on the nipples but no joy!

Unfortunately there are several plastic pipe fixings in the tunnel to secure the pipe safely out the way. You can use some cable ties but it really need adequate fixing.
The MOT states brake condition, this includes pipe security, that's why most people drop the tank. I didn't but to be honest by the time I'd messed about I think possibly it would have been quicker.
You have the correct idea with the front union, cut and bend it over, try not to loose fluid then the air won't get as far as the master cylinder to effect the fronts.
Martin