Club 80-90 Forums

Sorry to trouble you all again guys n gals but help needed!

This pipe comes from the fuel tank and after looking in my trusty Haynes Manual again, I've no idea where it should go. The engine is a 2 litre by the way. It's the pipe in the top centre of the picture:

[IMG:480:640]http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75 ... 200112.jpg[/img]

[IMG:640:480]http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75 ... 200111.jpg[/img]

Also whilst I'm here, any ideas if there should be anything coming off of the top right of the air box?

[IMG:640:480]http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75 ... 200113.jpg[/img]

Just found that the coil isn't bolted down either, so about to do that.

I guess that this van hasn't been shown any love for years; fuel breather hoses missing, wires on the engine held together with masking tape.

Thanks in advance

Steve

Not sure on an aircold but on a DG carb model the fuel line on your right (when viewed from the rear) is the feed TO the carb and the one on the left is the return pipe FROM the carb to the petrol tank.

There should be a spigot (small pipe) sticking out of the carb where this goes.

Ian.

Hi, not going to be much help this I'm afraid . Just looked under my engine lid and the pipe you have is not on mine. It also does not have the stub on the air box either. My air box has a stub at the front (towards the rear bumper, if you see what I mean)., from which an air hose goes down to a stub on engine. If you need pics I'll try to get some later but I don't think it will help you much!
Mine is a 2.0 CU engine.

meggles wrote:Hi, not going to be much help this I'm afraid . Just looked under my engine lid and the pipe you have is not on mine. It also does not have the stub on the air box either. My air box has a stub at the front (towards the rear bumper, if you see what I mean)., from which an air hose goes down to a stub on engine. If you need pics I'll try to get some later but I don't think it will help you much!
Mine is a 2.0 CU engine.

You've just reminded me to get my bottom in gear and get the carpet in the post to you Meggles. Sorry, Steve has been up in Doncaster visiting his Nanna who is ill. I'll get it sorted sir! by the way, we too have the stub at the front of the air box that goes to a stub on the engine.

This van is becoming the bane of Steve's life. We've got ticking from the starter motor too. He's cleaned everything up (as per answers to a post on here from someone with the same problem) and has also tried my step dad's new battery off of his Bay and it's still ticking - usually a couple of times before it starts.

Bev

Bev,

by ticking do you mean the following:
1. key in ignition
2. turn key
3. clear click heard, but NO starting
4. turn key back
5. repeat until the engine starts?

If so, I had this with my old Aircooled motor. We removed the starter motor (easy enough for the complete novice) and replaced the starter motor bush (looks like a piece of copper piping) that sits in the hole into which the metal sticky out bit of the starter motor fits (do you like the tecnical language?). Tisn't always the easiest thing to get out, but if its worn, or even worn through in places, starting becomes a hit and miss affair. I found that be rolling the van a bit in either direction sometimes helped.

this sorted the starting issues. Unfortunately, the old cow got the upset that we sorted that and decided that she was going to go to VW heaven...electrical faults and engine death and body work issues kinda sealed her fate!!!

ermie571 wrote:Bev,

by ticking do you mean the following:
1. key in ignition
2. turn key
3. clear click heard, but NO starting
4. turn key back
5. repeat until the engine starts?

Yep ermie, this is exactly what it is doing. Thanks for the advice, Steve is about to put his overalls back on and go have a look!

I'm refusing to drive it or take the children out in the van until it's fixed! As for 'the pipe that has no home' he's just plugged it up for now until we find out where it's home is!

Bev x

Bev,

Let him know that removing the bush can be a devil of a job! (sure he will be pleased) A meaty shortish screw driver and a piece of cloth can be useful for pulling it out....It took John some time to get the main bit out, and he then spent another enjoyable 10 minutes making usre all the little bits were out. You will need a replacement, which should be soaked in oil for 24 hours OR held on our thumb, fill with oil and compress with other thumb until the metal stuff absorbs some of the oil.

DON'T GIVE UP!!!


I wish you both luck...get that kettle on woman!

Em
x

That pipe looks to have the spigot still in it ..... it looks to have pulled out of the carb. I'd make sure by disconnecting the coil and watching while someone carefully turns the engine over ... if petrol pees out of the carb that's where this should be.

You'll need that properly fixing if not it could pump fuel all over the engine and it'll end in a fire

Ian.

Ian, you have the eyes of a hawk!!

Bev - have some solex carbs here as well as the starter if you need a replacement/comparison

Wish I still had my Aircooled, but trying to keep others on the road!

Em
x

Ian Hulley wrote:That pipe looks to have the spigot still in it ..... it looks to have pulled out of the carb. I'd make sure by disconnecting the coil and watching while someone carefully turns the engine over ... if petrol pees out of the carb that's where this should be.

You'll need that properly fixing if not it could pump fuel all over the engine and it'll end in a fire

Ian.

Oh b*gger, me Haynes manual doesn't show where that goes back in then! Although it does tell me it's the return to the fuel tank. Can you tell I'm a complete novice?? Brakes and calipers I can do, carbs I can't. It's been out since the day I bought the vehicle and didn't think much about it until Bev asked what it was today!

Looks like I'm spending most of tomorrow morning messing about with the van. I like the satisfaction of doing things myself, with advice from you guys of course. Have a feeling that this one is going to be past me, so might have to pay someone to sort it.

How much do you want for the Solex carbs Ermie? I'm going to get that starter motor bush you mentioned before I start messing around there.

If I'm lucky we might be running properly before Vanwest ! Then it's MOT time in June ....... dread to think what's going to be wrong then.

Steve

if you take the starter of then make sure you disconnect the battery as it has a constant live going to it. also use the time to clean up and check the connections as they need to be good.

whilst you are there clean up the connections or replace the earth strap that goes from the gear box to the chassis, if you cant see one put a new one on bare metal to bare metal. this is a common problem that will rear its ugly head at some time or other.

The bit you showed us is the return pipe off the CT or DG. Just block it off.

Looks like it could have been a 1.6CT engine but someone did the right thing and threw it in the canal and replaced it with a 2.0l CU motor.

The CT engine had a fuel return, the 2.0l CU motor didn't.

You will be able to tell on the right hand side of the engine bay as there will probably be a spare looking bracket with 2 holes which was the airbox mount for the old engine.

Don't worry, just make sure it's bunged up properly and tucked out of the way.

Not too sure about this but, if the pipe is just blocked off could it cause breathing/vaccuming problems? Did it once on a Ford car (swearing) and engine used to die after a while.

meggles wrote:Not too sure about this but, if the pipe is just blocked off could it cause breathing/vaccuming problems? Did it once on a Ford car (swearing) and engine used to die after a while.

The pipe only goes back to the tank, Like I said above it isn't used on the 2.0l, the factory just used a blanking plug on the end of the tank and didn't fit a return line to the 2.0l's.