Plastic Coolant pipe repair/replacement
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- lagerhead
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Plastic Coolant pipe repair/replacement
My plastic coolant return line has failed just where it enters the engine bay. Upon removal i can see that it has been repaired previously (a break where the plastic insert is moulded in) resulting in the whole of the insert coming out. I have started to strip the whole lot down as if i am going to do a proper repair(or replace it) i want the plastic pipe completely removed so i can work on it properly. Now here lies my problem.....
I gather from searching that it is most likely that i will have to drop the tank in order to remove the pipe - can it be done with the tank in situ? or is it not worth the hassle and should I try to repair it in the van?
1.6td by the way
Andy
I gather from searching that it is most likely that i will have to drop the tank in order to remove the pipe - can it be done with the tank in situ? or is it not worth the hassle and should I try to repair it in the van?
1.6td by the way
Andy
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- Mocki
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if you remove, or release the clip that holds the two pipes just at the front of the fuel tank, and get the van up high enough at the rear, you can get them out without dropping the tank.......
dropping the tank takes a few mins, but putting it back takes ages, and 7 very thin hands!
dropping the tank takes a few mins, but putting it back takes ages, and 7 very thin hands!
Steve
tel / txt O7947-137911

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hey Lagerhead,
i just replaced my metal water pipes with plastic ones, and let me tell, it was no easy job
I spent 6 hours taking the metal ones out in pieces and ramming the plastic ones in, thankfully without breaking them. Now, i did the whole job with the van on a stone driveway, with only the OS/F jacked up and secured on axel stands. But it's a real pig of a job getting them in and out. Both pipes have to go in at the same time, and then you have to start twisting them (both together) to compensate for the kinks in the pipes, and they don't twist easily.
Now one of my plastic pipes had the same problem as yours, the metal insert had gone, but the pipe had already been whittled down to look like the metal one, if you know what i mean. The channel for the jubilee clip was there, so all i did was soak the rubber pipe in boiling water and rammed it onto the plastic pipe.
Maybe you could do the same sort of job on yours with a file or something, just take material away until you get a bit of a channel all around the pipe for the clip to bed into.
Those pipes are a real f**ker to get out if you want to go that direction, but be warned for skinned knuckles, a lot of swearing and plenty a cups of tea for these cold nights
i just replaced my metal water pipes with plastic ones, and let me tell, it was no easy job

I spent 6 hours taking the metal ones out in pieces and ramming the plastic ones in, thankfully without breaking them. Now, i did the whole job with the van on a stone driveway, with only the OS/F jacked up and secured on axel stands. But it's a real pig of a job getting them in and out. Both pipes have to go in at the same time, and then you have to start twisting them (both together) to compensate for the kinks in the pipes, and they don't twist easily.
Now one of my plastic pipes had the same problem as yours, the metal insert had gone, but the pipe had already been whittled down to look like the metal one, if you know what i mean. The channel for the jubilee clip was there, so all i did was soak the rubber pipe in boiling water and rammed it onto the plastic pipe.
Maybe you could do the same sort of job on yours with a file or something, just take material away until you get a bit of a channel all around the pipe for the clip to bed into.
Those pipes are a real f**ker to get out if you want to go that direction, but be warned for skinned knuckles, a lot of swearing and plenty a cups of tea for these cold nights

- lagerhead
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OK so i have spent the day on my back trying to get the pipes out with no success at all. I have decided to repair it in situ and have used a soldering iron to try to melt the plastic back together.
It's running ok, bled up and seems to hold, however, i'm not to happy with the longevitivity of the repair. So here's the question - i've seen the repair kits on go-westy here http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=113 but I can't get my head around how they work. Has anyone used these with any success?
Cheers
Andy
It's running ok, bled up and seems to hold, however, i'm not to happy with the longevitivity of the repair. So here's the question - i've seen the repair kits on go-westy here http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=113 but I can't get my head around how they work. Has anyone used these with any success?
Cheers
Andy
Westi California Pop top - Oil burning in White
water pipes
i changed my return and feed pipes, please don't try and repair them you'll be under there every other day, drop the tank and do it properly then you will have peace of mind when driving your T25. ask a friend to help you it will take you about 3 to 4 hours max. axle stands at the front and chock the rears. good luck 

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I charge 4 hours for the complete job, in garage, tank out, pipes off, new ones in fresh hose clips, back in, all cable tied up nice, fresh coolant and blead up.
Buy new pipes from VW while you can!
You can't do it with the tank in as just inside the rearmost crossmember is a hose clip that goes over a tab in the chassis and clamps the 2 pipes to the chassis, you cannot get to this clamp with the fuel tank in situ, unless your van is partucularly rusty and it has fallen off, but every tank I see has them attached, I even had one recently that had been repaired by a so called "Specialist" who had also managed to clamp up the handbrake cable too, clever boy.
Buy new pipes from VW while you can!
You can't do it with the tank in as just inside the rearmost crossmember is a hose clip that goes over a tab in the chassis and clamps the 2 pipes to the chassis, you cannot get to this clamp with the fuel tank in situ, unless your van is partucularly rusty and it has fallen off, but every tank I see has them attached, I even had one recently that had been repaired by a so called "Specialist" who had also managed to clamp up the handbrake cable too, clever boy.
- Hacksawbob
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I did mine with the tank in, didnt spot the rear of the tank band so fannied about trying to remove them not able to see where the were hung up. clipped the strap and they came out. I think I put them in separately bugger of a job. I repaired the rear section on the syncro by chopping the plastic shorter and using a longer rubber replacement section from halfords. Its on wiki somewhere.
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- lagerhead
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Simon Baxter wrote: Buy new pipes from VW while you can!
Any idea of the part numbers? I went to my local dealer who looked at me vacantly when I mentioned T25!!!
Alternatively there is a lush looking stainless set on gunzl.... I guess as these are 2 piece i could chop the old ones out and fit new without worrying about dropping the tank.
My only worry is all i am trying to do is join a rubber hose to a plastic pipe. Surely there is a simple way of doing this

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lagerhead wrote:Simon Baxter wrote: Buy new pipes from VW while you can!
Any idea of the part numbers? I went to my local dealer who looked at me vacantly when I mentioned T25!!!
Alternatively there is a lush looking stainless set on gunzl.... I guess as these are 2 piece i could chop the old ones out and fit new without worrying about dropping the tank.
My only worry is all i am trying to do is join a rubber hose to a plastic pipe. Surely there is a simple way of doing this
Thats because you asked for what is basically slang for a Type 2
Go and ask for Type 2 parts and you might get somewhere instead of a made up name that people insist on calling them!

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Pa ... ain_Dealer
water pipes
part number is 251121397G and 251121399G and they retail at £52 each plus vat from volkswagen, i know cos i keep all my reciepts......what a geek!
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