Club 80-90 Forums

Been having an electric problem of late, basically not getting any response when the key is turned.

(Not a battery connection issue)

I've had a prod around with my voltmeter but i have no idea what to make of what i found out...

There is power to the altenator.

There are two other wires that I checked, but I don't know what they do!
There is power to the green wire in the pic below...
[IMG681]http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee30 ... C_0175.jpg[/img]

There is no power to the wire arrowed here...
[IMG681]http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee30 ... 0173-1.jpg[/img]

Any pointers as to what is going on here or what i should check are appreciated.

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does the starter turn? if not the ign switch could be buggered,, or the wire could be off the starter motor or have a dry connection (the thin wire with the spade connection)

(just back from the pub)


any person, vehicle, or other entity that uses bodge blocks is doomed, sorry but it is.

It will probably never work again. sell it and buy another.

failing that get jump leads and hot wire the starter motor and try that but bodge blocks!!? run away

is the green wire the over run shut off valve from the diesel pump , pic not that clear !! I agree with the bodge blocks , asking for truoble there mate !! Ill second the jump lead trick , If you connect the positive from battery direct to starter motor it will take out most of electrics and narrow down your search. check the main engine earthing is good

Ok first is to get rid of the block connectors and fix them by soldering the two wires you will have what they call a dry joint then tape up with insulation tape, I am not familiar with the engine you have cant decide if its a 1.6 JX or a 1.9 but from the pictures it is a Turbo. The Black wire that you say has no voltage this wire must have a value of 12volt it feeds your solonoid valve on the injector pump, which when power is there you will hear the solonoid click its clicking noise tells you it is opening and closing. the reason why its cranking but not starting is because its not getting any fuel into the injector pump. trace the wire back to the black box left hand side of engine bay in there you will find 2 cylindrical block connectors linking your engine bay loom, you need to look in there to find why no power if power coming in then fault must be connector to pump, if no power at connector check fuse at dashboard passenger side. hope this is of help, dont be put off by previous comments

will have what they call a dry joint

- Sorry but that's the last thing that you want! A dry joint is a defective solder joint and looks "dry" i.e. it has a matt finish to the solder. A good solder joint looks bright and shiny. A dry joint is likely to fail over time.

Suedehead - If you remove the horrible block connectors (recommended) and solder the wires together, cover the joint with heatshrink tubing (Maplins or perhaps Halfwits).

Ok, you'll have to forgive my ignorance, what are these 'bodge blocks'? I know at some point that the wiring through the van has been done really badly, re-wired most of it at the front end, but never done it in the engine. Is there a diagram I could follow, it's a 1.6td if you hadn't realised. Pretty confident in following diagrams etc.

Thanks

Bodge block is the blue thing on the end of the red lead.

What year is your JX engine? Water pipes seem to have been altered coz they are diferent to mine. I cant see your secondary elec water pump! Perhaps they wernt fitted untill later?

Your lead to the temp sender on the oil cooler is missing/disconected.

The oil feed pipe from the filter area to the turbo looks like its been mullerd at some stage. Might be worth replacing, you dont want that to crack and starve the turbo of oil.