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sheared exhaust stud . . .*#$@
Posted: 31 Dec 2007, 12:13
by garyodevon
Happy New Year to y'all . . . .
Exhaust on me early 1.9 dg is blowing excessively . . .
Tho, on further inspection, have found its blowing on head to exhaust mounting . . .(no studs there atall on nearside rear head)
BOTH STUDS SEEM TO HAVE SHEARED OFF APROXX 2/3 THREADS WITHIN THE HEAD. so cant try the welded nut method.
Is this deffo an engine out job? . . .lookin for a cheap n easy method really . . . . . .
. . . .engine out innit????

Posted: 31 Dec 2007, 13:23
by manxman
if two have gone its likely all the rest will go, take the motor out and replace the lot.
I drilled mine with good quality drilll bits starting small and working up till most of the stud had gone, then cut a slot down two sides with a needle file and knocked them out..
Take a look on Wiki.
Posted: 31 Dec 2007, 14:12
by lloyd
I've not removed any from wbx heads, but many from air cooled and other makes of engines.. Had good luck using left hand twist bits. They usually grab bolt/threads and back out what's left (no pun). Usually don't have to cut last of threads to get them out. Biggest problem is getting bit centered in bolt to start with and drilling first hole straight. Before pulling engine soak with good penetrating oil several times and warm up engine between soaks as it usually helps release them.
Posted: 31 Dec 2007, 14:24
by MINI_BUS
exhaust place removed mine for me by heating the stud the hamering a small socket on to stud and turning it out give that a try
Posted: 31 Dec 2007, 16:17
by toomanytoys
engine drop and drill with VERY good quality drill bits... slowly and carefully... then as said and "EZout" extractor might do it, but dont snap that off in there... they are near impossible to drill...
Posted: 31 Dec 2007, 18:11
by Ian Hulley
Now
there's a coincidence ! I've just been removing the old exhaust pipes from our DG .... on the Workmate not in the van. All but one came out fine (well, most with hammered on sockets of varying sizes .... except 13mm of course

) The last one was a right barsteward and required drilling out and tapping.
Believe me I wouldn't like to
have to have done it laid on my back under the van !
Ian.
Posted: 31 Dec 2007, 20:38
by garyodevon

So out it comes then . . . .Thanx peeps!!
Trouble is . . .never taken a lump out before, Gotta haynes and a bentley manual . . .but . . .
Any local guys on here know of a reputable company that'll take on this task for me ???
Posted: 31 Dec 2007, 20:39
by lloyd
EZouts twist into drilled hole and force out against the remains of bolt to turn it out. This means they usually expand the bolt into the threaded hole. This expanding of what is left of the bolt tends to lock/hold it in the threaded hole! So be very careful with them! This is why I use reverse twist drill bits instead.

Posted: 01 Jan 2008, 14:53
by "WEAZLECHIN"
mine all flew out after i drilled them and used an extractor (e z out) took about 30 minutes
Posted: 01 Jan 2008, 15:08
by manxman
I'd be VERY weary of using EZouts, in fact I wouldn't. Guess it depends how badly the studs are corroded in in the first place though.
Posted: 01 Jan 2008, 15:54
by garyodevon
Posted: 03 Jan 2008, 11:19
by Ian Hulley
IF you can drill straight try using left handed drills, as it drills it can (possibly) undo the stud too. They may not be that bad, as Jim say's.
Ian.