Club 80-90 Forums

Does anyone know why my 1985 water-cooled 1900 engine has (what I think is) a governed distributor rotor (i.e a spring operated contact)? My previous air-cooled had a normal rotor.

stops the over reving from lead feet..as it has no rev counter red line is set in the gov'ner
you can replace it with a normal one

All t25's had them.. it was a cheap anti abuse device...

I have run a normal beetle rotor for years.. it all depends on your mechanical sympathy zand who might drive it.. if other people do then you might want to retain the limiter.. or as can happen, if the throttle cable jambs/the throttle sticks open/etc,etc, it will prevent your engine from exploding before you switch it off...

Many thanks for the quick replies - Bugger, I could've kept the new solid rotor I bought instead of giving it away.....!

toomanytoys wrote:if the throttle cable jambs/the throttle sticks open/etc,etc, it will prevent your engine from exploding before you switch it off...

My throttle stuck fully open as I was accelerating away from lights. Engine screamed a big scream as I dipped the clutch to go from 2nd to 3rd....

I had solid rotor arm. Engine had to go to Mr. Baxter for the rockers putting back on....

Thanks guys.

After reading the above comments, the existing governed rotor arm is probably a safer bet. My other bus is an automatic so there's never been a problem with engine racing between gear changes - or when it's in gear for that matter....!

My air-cooled bus is in Spain and the engine's currently being rebuilt by my son-in-law so next year (hopefully) I'll only have to fly out & it'll be ready to go...!!

Mines governed. Saved my bacon many times when I've got the stereo on full blast and not paying attention to which gear I'm in - also fun when you go screaming along to overtake and get that sudden drop like pulling the plug on a vacuum cleaner.