Late DG to DJ ... blow by blow
Posted: 28 Nov 2007, 19:19
OK, firstly I like to point everyone in the direction of the 'Thanks' thread over on General Chat. 
Right, the mission was to swap a running, late 1.9DG which was leaking oil, coolant leak from the cylinder jacket elbow and knackered exhaust from a manual van for a 2.1DJ 'without major issues' out of a scrap automatic van.
Firstly I cleaned and checked over the DJ, replacing anything I was not 100% happy with. The water hoses were in good condition and the large metal waterpipe as new. I replaced the small, shaped water pipe from the pump behind the crank pulley to the right bank of cylinders, this had a small rust patch on the outside but a LARGE growth on the inside. It's a right barsteward to replace with the engine in so it made sense (plus £55.00 !) to do t now. I replaced all the clips for new jubilees, with the heads pointing in a convenient direction for future slackishness.
I stripped, cleaned and resealed the leaking oil filler tube and replace all external fasteners for stainless. Stripped, cleaned and resealed the thermostat tower, replacing the thermostat and swapped the rusty, knackered socket head screws for stainless bolts. Refitted and reseald the exhaust using stainless fasteners, machine studs and copper-faced aerotyte nuts, drilling out any threaded parts on the silencer.
The 2.1 was from an automatic and so had the driveplate instead of a flywheel, the DG flywheel was knackered but I was given a good s/h one. The automatic doesn't have a pinion support bearing in the end of the crankshaft, the manual needs one. These were £3.50 from our local motorfactors, they HAVE to be good and seated rightback with the numbers facing outwards otherwise the back of the flywheel crimps this over, stopping the engine going on the gearbox
If you have any doubts on yours change it anyway, if it fails it spins the pinion shaft and leads to loss of sleep AND possibly long-term a gearbox .
The driveplate or flywheel is fastened on with 5 socket head bolts (10mm hex 1/2" drive socket) these HAVE to be replaced .. even if it doesn't say so in Haynes
(VW 902.268.01) these are torqued and have studlock on them. If the driveplate won't budge use a M18x1.25x50mm setscrew to push the plate/flywheel off. Replace the rear crankhaft oilseal and check the crankshaft endfloat shims and make sure there's 3 plus the tab washer and the retaining clip jobby. Fit a new 2.1 clutch ... ours had died (after 5 !! months ) and the springs in the cover were shot ... gearbox out again ! T'onion and me took the box out, 12 CV bolts, startermotor etc etc out in 24 minutes
We were keeping the carb/LPG setup so when I pulled up for the last time with the DG I made sure I was running on petrol, the gas was switched off and the single hose from the evaporator unit disconnected . I removed the inlet manifold (fortunately the gaskets were as new), throttle cable and all airbox related items. Keep the carb upright at all times.
The 2.1i dizzy is basically the same as a 1.9 BUT has 2 inlet/outlets on the advance/retard unit, you need to blank off the one nearest the dizzy (i.e. pointing backwards) I used a piece of suitable hose and cable-tied it over double. If the timing has been interfered with to set it up remove the rocker cover on the right bank and turn the crank pulley with a 30mm spanner untill the small notch lines up with the split in the crankcase both valves on #1 should now be closed, with the dustshield removed the rotor arm should point to the line on the rim of the dizzy (at 5 o'clock).
The actual fitting/removal of the engine is a doddle, VERY heavy though, and you'll need 2 of you and 2 trolley jacks, one to support the gearbox and one for the engine... see manual for details.
That's it for now, if I think of owt else I'll tag it on later.
Cheers, Ian.
Right, the mission was to swap a running, late 1.9DG which was leaking oil, coolant leak from the cylinder jacket elbow and knackered exhaust from a manual van for a 2.1DJ 'without major issues' out of a scrap automatic van.
Firstly I cleaned and checked over the DJ, replacing anything I was not 100% happy with. The water hoses were in good condition and the large metal waterpipe as new. I replaced the small, shaped water pipe from the pump behind the crank pulley to the right bank of cylinders, this had a small rust patch on the outside but a LARGE growth on the inside. It's a right barsteward to replace with the engine in so it made sense (plus £55.00 !) to do t now. I replaced all the clips for new jubilees, with the heads pointing in a convenient direction for future slackishness.
I stripped, cleaned and resealed the leaking oil filler tube and replace all external fasteners for stainless. Stripped, cleaned and resealed the thermostat tower, replacing the thermostat and swapped the rusty, knackered socket head screws for stainless bolts. Refitted and reseald the exhaust using stainless fasteners, machine studs and copper-faced aerotyte nuts, drilling out any threaded parts on the silencer.
The 2.1 was from an automatic and so had the driveplate instead of a flywheel, the DG flywheel was knackered but I was given a good s/h one. The automatic doesn't have a pinion support bearing in the end of the crankshaft, the manual needs one. These were £3.50 from our local motorfactors, they HAVE to be good and seated rightback with the numbers facing outwards otherwise the back of the flywheel crimps this over, stopping the engine going on the gearbox
If you have any doubts on yours change it anyway, if it fails it spins the pinion shaft and leads to loss of sleep AND possibly long-term a gearbox .The driveplate or flywheel is fastened on with 5 socket head bolts (10mm hex 1/2" drive socket) these HAVE to be replaced .. even if it doesn't say so in Haynes
(VW 902.268.01) these are torqued and have studlock on them. If the driveplate won't budge use a M18x1.25x50mm setscrew to push the plate/flywheel off. Replace the rear crankhaft oilseal and check the crankshaft endfloat shims and make sure there's 3 plus the tab washer and the retaining clip jobby. Fit a new 2.1 clutch ... ours had died (after 5 !! months ) and the springs in the cover were shot ... gearbox out again ! T'onion and me took the box out, 12 CV bolts, startermotor etc etc out in 24 minutes We were keeping the carb/LPG setup so when I pulled up for the last time with the DG I made sure I was running on petrol, the gas was switched off and the single hose from the evaporator unit disconnected . I removed the inlet manifold (fortunately the gaskets were as new), throttle cable and all airbox related items. Keep the carb upright at all times.
The 2.1i dizzy is basically the same as a 1.9 BUT has 2 inlet/outlets on the advance/retard unit, you need to blank off the one nearest the dizzy (i.e. pointing backwards) I used a piece of suitable hose and cable-tied it over double. If the timing has been interfered with to set it up remove the rocker cover on the right bank and turn the crank pulley with a 30mm spanner untill the small notch lines up with the split in the crankcase both valves on #1 should now be closed, with the dustshield removed the rotor arm should point to the line on the rim of the dizzy (at 5 o'clock).
The actual fitting/removal of the engine is a doddle, VERY heavy though, and you'll need 2 of you and 2 trolley jacks, one to support the gearbox and one for the engine... see manual for details.
That's it for now, if I think of owt else I'll tag it on later.
Cheers, Ian.
