Club 80-90 Forums

Hi All
Had a chance to make a start on getting my 2.0l air cool 4 speed running better today. It had a perished T piece on the servo so i hoped it was that. Just Kampers got one out to me overnight and I rushed out and fitted it, but its pretty much the same. Ho hum.
So I've started pulling stuff off of it and it looks like someones been trying to fix this already as most of the pipes on the vacuum side of things are new.
I don't have a manual so bear with me here, but the sprung loaded flaps on the engine dont move hot or cold?. Are these thermostatic for intake air or are they the hot cold air to the cab?
What is the thing in the picture below? Looks like it should have pipes coming offf of it, but hasn't?
The distributer seems ok and moves if you suck with pipe. I seem to reclal reading that its possible to fit a 009 distributer to this engine but it doesn't actually work well? If thats true how can I identify which distributer I have?
So I can't find any more air leaks so what could be causing this fast idle when warm (and worth noting it wont idle when cold) and an uneven running and a lack of power?
Many thanks.

[IMG:150:128]http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/4139/various006ep6.th.jpg[/img]

Heres the distributer cap, would you say thats knackered, or not?

[IMG:150:128]http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/8625/dizzycap001el6.th.jpg[/img]

looking at the scoring on the contacts that fot the few quid it costs is a deffo new one needed.

the state of the posts in your dizzy cap your timing is out and needs setting up properly as its been arcing across the terminals !

Hi All
Yup, electric pump fitted.
New cap, rotor arm and leads ordered.
Still a bit miffed about why it wont idle cold and then idls too fast when warm? Could this be another symptom of incorrect ignition timing as you mentioned?
I cant find any evidence of any further air leaks? Spraying wd40 at the carbs doesn't make the revs pick up any?

Well.. as said in other post.. FULL service and setup required..

that includes new dizzy can and rotor + plugs and poss a set of leads if old and crappy looking.. as well as filters...

Carbs could be worn.. this causes all sorts of nasty running problems.. (gasure can rebuild) replace all rubber fuel and vac lines... ensure everything is connected (which it loos like you are doing)..

DONT fit a 009... backawrads step... make sure the stock dizzy is actually working and not sticking inc the vac unit.. Remove idle stabiliser box (if still fiitted) its next to the ign amp unit on the left firewall.. plug the 2 conection from the bottom of it together..

Make sure the choke flaps are working, this wont help... ensure the throttle cable isnt sticking/mal adjusted...

As with any 25 year old vehicle.. lots of old gunk and cheap previous owners doesnt help...
Last resort os to get it to someone that really knows these (Brickwerks/Gasure etc)

Taipan wrote:Hi All
Yup, electric pump fitted.

Leave the old manual pump in situ. Saves using a blanking plate and you never know, you may need it one day. It will do no harm.
All the best with the rest.
Phredd

The mech pump is prob frelled thats why there is an electric one there.. its just stopping the oil falling out... you can get a blanking plate if you want....

which distributer cap have you ordered? the proper dizzy should have 2 vac units on it but mine has been changed to i think a 009 with points and just a single vac advance.
despite what folks say mine runs fine.
electronic ign = dark science
points = 12v, then no 12v BANG (much simpler)
yours looks like its suffered from damp. nowt to do with timing i wouldn't think.
the sprung plates you mention are to do with engine cooling and when the thermostat fails they go to full cooling so nothing to worry about.

No 009 had vac advance... more likely its an early type 4...
The advance curves are all wrong on an 009 and the type 1 dizzy...
the electronic system works great... and is reliable...

The stat is there for a reason... but apparently the type 4 one is no longer available.. a type 1 type can be fitted.. but I dont know what needs to be done to make it work correctly... cold engine means less efficiency..

Hi All

Thanks for all the replies.

I think it has the standard dizzy (see pic below). I'll leave it alone for now and hopefully by next weekend i'll have the new leads and dizzy capr, rotor arm etc and with a bit of luck my Haynes manual will have turned up by then.

I'll borrow a timing ligh as well and check the timing. Just for kicks I moved the distributer about but it makes no diference to the fast idle or uneven running?

I think i'll pull the carbs and strip, clean them etc. Hopefully i'll be able to see if its been sucking in air at the manifold etc. It may be something silly like the idle has been adjusted high as it wont idle properly when cold? I get the impression someones been playing around with it and it maybe that everything is just incorrectly adjusted?

Thanks again.

[IMG:150:128]http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/6288/dizzycap001jg7.th.jpg[/img]

Laugh a minute this.

I've managed to get some time to look into the bus a bit further. It was running fast as someone has cranked up the idle speed screw on one carb only. Presumably to try and counter the non functioning choke?

Anyway, with a normal idle I decided to time it up, but theres no timing marks on the flywheel thing? ho hum. Oh well I can do that by ear I guess.

Anyway, its now very lumpy on idle and i think its only running on 3 cylinders. Pulling the HT caps off one at a time and found it made little difference when pulling the cap off of no1 cylinder. I ran out of light and time at this point so I guess I'll pull the plugs just incase its that. but i suspect it willbe valve or suchlike as I believe that's quite common? Now, where did I put that compression tester....