Club 80-90 Forums

I am borrowing a steam cleaner later to get all the crud off my Syncro and when it's properly dry I will attack the underside with Waxoyl. Apart from the obvious bits underneath which I can see are there any areas which need particular attention to keep the dreaded metal worm at bay

yeah , dont use it ! use ensis oil instead , more expensive than waxoil but will get into any pressed seams and under spot welded panels and force any moisture out - unlike waxoil £75 + vat for 20 l

Underneath there are a fair amount of holes (some of them plugged) which give access to inside cavities, both of the frame as well as some bodywork seams ..make sure you get into all of them.

The holes at the bottom inside of the bootlid and sliding door also need a soaking.

Another critical spot is the bottom of the air intakes (acces via engine compartment and behind rear lights), there you get at the top end of the rear wheel arch seams

http://img293.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... 004zi3.jpg

I have used waxoyl for years now, and it's o.k. I have the one with the round cylinder with a pump on the top. What I do is wait till a hot day, then warm up the waxoyl in hot water in the house to get it fluid, then take it outside in a big bucket of steaming water... to keep it all nice and hot. Then it sprays really well. It still is a bit gloopy to run down all the cracks and things, for that I use aerosol Dinitrol which is much better. I think that there are better wax type applications out there, but waxoyl is fine for under the bus. No good for anywhere round the wheel arches, washes off very quickly. I now brush reachable areas with waxoyl underbody tinned stuff, and spray the remaining inaccesible bits. The bus stinks for a week or two.
simon.
Oh, and dont forget the B pillar, I hoovered mine out from the air vent on the shut panel near the filler cap blank - seat belt mount. Then sprayed waxoyl in. Also inside if you can get the trim out, the panel behind the sliding door has a deep recess into the sill area, collects condensation especially in campers... thats a good place. And underneath the chassis rail bit that goes between the rear jacking points, this fills up with mud and is well worth hosing out through the manufacturing holes.

make sure all drain holes are clear too.. the bottom of the B pillar gets all sorts of debris in it and then blocks holding damp and crud...

As said.. personally I would have dont his in summer when its stinking hot... its going to take a while for any enclosed spaces to dry out in this weather....

I fear I've missed the late Indian summer but since I'm not driving the Syncro at present I'm not fussed about any smells. If I can get the waxoyl warm enough to spray (I"ve just bought one of those kits with the round can and applicator) then hopefully it'll dry over the next few weeks???
I reckon I'll go with brushing it on the easy access areas.

Thanks for the tips everyone

wear gloves! it's a bugger to get of!

Waxoyl - any tips please

Don't set it alight

HarryMann wrote:

Waxoyl - any tips please

Don't set it alight

I was going to put that, it burns very well

wear a disposable all in one boiler suiut with the hood up have you ever tried getting waxoyl out of hair? (comb with white spirit!)

ELVIS wrote:yeah , dont use it ! use ensis oil instead , more expensive than waxoil but will get into any pressed seams and under spot welded panels and force any moisture out - unlike waxoil £75 + vat for 20 l

I'm quite intrigued by Ensis now. I can always take back the unopened Waxoyl if needs be, where is the best place to get it from and how is the best way to apply it? (the waxoyl has it's own 'spray' nozzle).

Oh, and I will definitely not be wearing my sunday best

thing with waxoil is it sticks to what you spray it onto , say the main chassis rails etc underneath and all the outriggers etc have the floor on top , no matter how much you try you will never get inbetween the floor and tops of rails etc.
ensis is used on rigs/industry/military it will 'wick' its way anywhere and you will see when you use it that on the otherside of a join where all of the moisture has been driven out , protects all the bits waxoil will never reach( like overlapping metal), no matter how much you spray/thin/warm it .just spray or brush it on.if you pay the extra you really wont be disappointed.

kerri at lubricants csr 01432 374606

The first thing I used back in the student days of running a bay window was old sump oil. That also works it's way into places that waxoyl wont reach, as like Elvis says waxoyl acts like a paint. The Dinitrol Aerosol spray is much better and I use that on the inside of the doors and other awkward places. The waxoyl will, on a really hot day re-melt and it does work it's way around a bit. The sump oil went everywhere, used to spray it on with a hvlp spay gun. My mum was not so enthusistic about the vw size oil slick on the drive!!
I think that the VW underseal on the underside of T25's is so good that the best way to keep the rust away is to keep the nooks and crannies free from mud and other debris.

oh , and to speak the obvious - use boggo standard waxoil OUTSIDE of cavities and it will as the biggest grit/sand/"pooh" magnet you have ever seen make sure you buy the different waxoil underseal if ya gonna use it to paint bottom with

Does anyone know which Ensis product I need to get which will best creep into the seam welds etc?

They make loads of products