Club 80-90 Forums

I require 2No new front outer cv boots for my 1990 Syncro
It is chassis 24 LG so requires the latter boots Part No 251 498 203 F
They are on back order from VW in germany.
Does any one Know any where else I can get them from
or will the earlier ones fit Part No 251 498 203 A what is the difference

Syncro-Nuts may have stock, otherwise just go ahead and place the order, the lead time is usually about 10 days.

To answer the question:-
No, 'A's won't fit properly, you do need the 'F' ones; there is a groove in the CV that requires the protrusion/rib in the 'F' boot to locate it. I think these should be cemented on with RTV or similar around the groove area.

There probably are a few F's in the country, but finding them's a different matter - as Andy said, just get them on order asap!

They can come in both black or white finish, but look for the protrusion/ rib just inside the large end of the boot to confirm 'F' and the match on your CVJ.

If you need the outermost rubber water-sealing rings which don't usually come with the boot kit, Aidan (Beaker) can supply, VW probably can't.

A few weeks ago when I checked there was only one type of front outer boot available from VW. I was told the others had been deleted.

Im not sure,,,,,but i was told that the boots are the same as ones used on some Audi's,,,,dont know what model tho
good luck

A few weeks ago when I checked there was only one type of front outer boot available from VW. I was told the others had been deleted

I've got 3 A's and an F here, which were only ordered back in March... F off to someone in post today, so don't ask for it

Terry, most Audis have a very different style of CVJ, so would need to know exactly what Audi this was, can't see any 251 part nos in there unless they've re-assigned part no.

Thanks for the advice, I will be ordering the F boots today. What is the o ring that is required, I can't see it on EKTA. What is the sealant thats required.
I would be interested in Audi alternatives.
Cheers

251 407 328

On the outboard face of the CVJ there is a hollow metal ring that holds a neoprene ? lipped seal. This seals against the hub bearing face (theroretically at least) to further prevent water/much ingress.

If you splosh and splash a lot, maybe they are worth renewing (as they'll prob. be in tatters), many don't change them, unless they find them in a CVJ kit.

Aidan (Beaker) managed to acquire the very last of the originals from the Swedish mfrs and can supply (with funds going to the syncronauts) and also offers the only replacement available, which are slightly different and don't need the metal ring. There's a syncro forum thread on this, just bumped it up and the whole story here..

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/aidan.talbot/V-RingSeals/

I have received my boot kits from VW and have ordered my v-ring seals from the club.
Any advise on the best way to do the job any tips.
Is it best to remove the drive shafts competly.
How do you do this.
How do you seal the cv boot what with.
Do you need a special tool for the clamps
Cheers

I have received my boot kits from VW and have ordered my v-ring seals from the club.

Thanks again to Aidan, some more funds, goody!

Any advise on the best way to do the job any tips.
Is it best to remove the drive shafts competly.

Yes, t is
How do you do this.

Release the top ball joint from the upper wishbone (allen screws, take care, think they are torqued back up to 44 ft-lbs), occasionally they break, pre-clean and plus-gas.
Remove steering arm and arb drop-link take care again (thoroughly wire brush whole thread and plus-gas, they shear easily). remove inner joint from drive flange, note the spacer, (socket cap heads or 12-point set screws)
How do you seal the cv boot what with.
Mmm, think RTV, ask Aidan

Do you need a special tool for the clamps
Proper crimp tool is good to have but can be done with pliers

Andy Mc, Aidan, Thomas will correct me no doubt (hopefull)

Good luck, allow plenty of time

Alternatively, you could remove the damper bolt and save the hassle of undoing the top ball joint and steering arm.

Cheers,
Sam.

Sounds a good tip

That'll be the top or the bottom one for efficacy Sam?

And I foregt to say the obvious, take the main axle nut off?

HarryMann wrote:

... F off to someone in post today, so don't ask for it

And theres me thinking you were a polite guy..

..what they said.

Plus, undo the hubnut with the wheel on the ground, obviously. AND, be prepared for the outer CVJ splines to be well and truly bonded into the hub with a special locking compound in the factory. Some like to beat the end of the shaft with a very large hammer, others like to use a large puller (removal of the disc required for this, whcih can be a saga in itself if welded in-place by rust). You may find a large puller AND a large hammer are required..

Oh yes, I remember that bit Andy

Can you check your pamil please.