Club 80-90 Forums

I have just been quoted three to four hundred pounds to replace my front inner arch.
The seat belt mounting is virtually non exsitent from the rear of the seat box to about eight inches in front of the belt anchor point which has badly corroded all three overlapping panels.
Also where the inner arch joins the outer front of the seat box the metal is so badly corroded that a screw driver was pushed through it quite easily.
I only wanted to change the cab carpet.
As the quote was so high I was wondering wether to tackle this my self.
I have a SIP gasless welder and am looking into buying an auto darkening helmet..........
What I am not sure of is the thickness of steel I should use also is any steel better than others, was told Zinc coated is bettter than normal steel, any ideas?
will post pics if any interest?
Rob.............

I can say that zinc coated won't weld... So wouldnt use that!
Sounds like a fair job you're taking on there. Would have said the price was fair for the work to be carried out. The plate should be the same thickness as the original plate you are welding to, in a perfect world anyway, but you could use a little thicker if needed.
Cant really offer much more advice as far as welding goes... Mine looks like pidgeon s**t on a windy day by the time i've attempted some!

As vwcampervan said dont use zinc coated.For good penetration to vehicle body .Ensure paint old underseal or any rust is removed.Bright and clean is what you want.Plate should be a close and tight fit it will help you attain a good weld and remove excess heat.To control distortion tack up the plate and light hammer into position .Arc welding needs slag to be removed to get good welds.

The gasless MIG's seem to be OK. I have never used one but my neighbour manages ok with his.

As for how thick the steel to use. Get as thick as you can cut / work.

I'd say 22 Gauge would be about pefect. (0.71mm)

I use Zinc plated steel - don't use galvanized. - If you do then grind the Galv away first - worth grinding the zinc off to really - I don't bother.

An Auto welding helmet is nice but not a must item.

I use a helmet style and a quick flick gets it down - but then I have a few years experience.

You can buy them with a clear window at the top and you just need to dip your head - hard to explain.

Four top tips.

Top Tip One - Don't mess about with small patches. Cut back and weld in a nice big repair.

Top Tip Two - Spend time making your repair panel and design it to fit with snuggly.

Top Tip Three - Clean Clean Clean. Don't think about starting till its Shiny Clean metal.

Top Tip Four - Get comfortable before you start. - I always need to rest my arm on something to steady it.

SplendiferousII wrote:The gasless MIG's seem to be OK. I have never used one but my neighbour manages ok with his.

As for how thick the steel to use. Get as thick as you can cut / work.

I'd say 22 Gauge would be about pefect. (0.71mm)

I use Zinc plated steel - don't use galvanized. - If you do then grind the Galv away first - worth grinding the zinc off to really - I don't bother.

An Auto welding helmet is nice but not a must item.

I use a helmet style and a quick flick gets it down - but then I have a few years experience.

You can buy them with a clear window at the top and you just need to dip your head - hard to explain.

Four top tips.

Top Tip One - Don't mess about with small patches. Cut back and weld in a nice big repair.

Top Tip Two - Spend time making your repair panel and design it to fit with snuggly.

Top Tip Three - Clean Clean Clean. Don't think about starting till its Shiny Clean metal.

Top Tip Four - Get comfortable before you start. - I always need to rest my arm on something to steady it.

Everything said above I have used 18 gauge steel in the past with great success and have also used 16 gauge (1.6mm) once or twice but this is a lot harder to work with.

Oh yeah, clean, clean, clean, clean, clean, clean.............

if you do tackle it remember that you will need to make sure that you remember that under there you have breather tanks etc etc, remember ONE OF THE BREATHERS VENTS INTO THE CHASSIS, so even if you plug up the others this one will still be open. im sure its on the drivers side only but make sure you cover this eventuality.

Hey thanks....
Some great advice....
At three to four hundred pounds I am determined to tackle this myself.
I did think of the fuel side of it....
It is the side of the fuel filler.
Obviously I need to be carerfull and take the breather tanks into account, I didn't know one vented into the chassis though.
Its also a diesel, does this make it less dangerous?

To be honest the Other side is pretty sound,seems all the rot is on one side.
maybe parked on the same kerb for years.
Rob.......[/u]

gasless weld is bubbly, gas is best. if its zinc coated, take the zinc off with a flapwheel and weld away. if you know how to mig weld you wont need flux cored.

A lot safer with diesel but still be careful. I only found out 2 days ago when i took my fuel tank off that the expansion tanks vent through little pipes that run through the chassis and come out above the fuel tank. Wondered what they were at first!